Search results

Hmm. That, and the pics from jasonb with MDF and/or MFC has given me another option. I'll see what the joiner says. I'm really not sure if I should be looking at pine, tulip, MDF or MFC. I've used MFC and MDF for bits and bobs in the past (boxing pipes etc.) but not thought of it for a...

Hmm, don't get me wrong: your example looks very good. But part of me liked retaining the original where possible, and I like the 1930s style. I'm happy that we have the original internal doors (1-over-3 panels), crockery cabinets, three fireplaces, front door, some windows, picture rails and...

Yeah, he said Tulip would be less knotty on the paint. I'm actually in the North East (Teesside) so I would have hoped it be cheaper! Anyway, the fella who was going to do a simple job with modern doors has come back with £650, so maybe £900ish for what we really really want isn't that bad.

Thanks. Funnily enough, we've just had another guy round who seems much more 'with it'. He said the same thing... bring out the existing, so they are both approx 60cm deep. He said it could be done with Pine, with or without backs (the current one is just a frame and door). Including...

Hi all, I've just moved to a 1928-built semi-detached house, which has a built-in wardrobes in the master bed. It is fitted between the internal wall and the chimney breast (with a cast-iron fireplace). The doors are 1930s-style 2-over-1 panel, and it fits into the skirting and picture...

wizbongre, I've got the same boiler (it also came with the house!)m and I have exactly the same situation with the DHW temperature control. If I have it set any further then 1pm, where the black dot is printed, the it will overheat and cut-off in DHW mode. It's been like this for about five...

I had the same problem with mine. First thing you should try is to change the CH thermistor. I know it sounds strange, since your problem is with the HW, but the design if the boiler means that in HW mode, both thermistors are important. The CH and HW thermistors are the same, so just put...

That suggests that the system is fine, and your issues are either a poorly pump, or incorrect balancing. What about if you turn down the lockshields on the hottest rads (close them fully, then open one turn) and fully open the lockshields on the coldest ones? (before you do this, please...

That's how I did mine, and it works fine (same setup: thermostatic mixer shower off a 24 kW combi). It's much better than the nasty electric shower I had before! :)

The CH flow pipe getting hot (when the CH is off and the HW tap is open) is incorrect, and does indicate a faulty DV. If you run the HW tap for a long time (10 mins), the rads will probably start to warm. It does seem strange, though, that you've had the same issue with your old DV. So...

When you say that the big CH flow pipe from the boiler got hot when you used the hot tap, where were you touching it? About a foot away from the boiler? It does indeed sound like the diverter: it does two things... 1) detects the hot tap being opened 2) controls the CH water to heat the hot...

My RSF84 is similar. I have to leave the DHW temperature control potentiometer at approximately 1pm. Any higher, and the boiler will overheat and cut-out. There are some other posters on this forum with Ravenheat boilers and the same scenario - the consensus seems to be to leave the control...

I've got an earlier boiler (Ravenheat RSF84ET), which has a very similar heat exchanger design. I agree with your gas engineer. Ravenheat are correct in that the CH water should not ever mix with the tap hot water, but they are coiled together in the heat exchanger. When you switch on a...

When you open your hot tap, does the microswitch in the boiler click, and the boiler fire-up? Does the water get hot? Does the boiler start to switch off and on, resulting in water going hot/cold/hot/cold/...?

Hi all, My combi CH/DHW has been working OK, but has recently started making strange noises. A few minutes after you turn the heating on, you can hear the sound of tapping and dripping in the pipework. It's particularly bad on the main bedroom radiator, the small bedroom radiator, and the...

If your CH is cold, and switching on a hot tap causes the CH to warm, then yes, your DV is passing. The boiler is trying to heat the HW and CH, which is doesn't have the capacity to achieve! For what it's worth, I experienced this exact situation with mine. The diaphragm failed on the DV...

I had a similar problem with my Ravenheat 84 (99% the same as your 100). I replaced the entire diverter with a generic cheapo one from BES/Banico, as the HW pin was not activating reliably. The new one activated perfectly, but decided to pass to the CH when the HW was in use. I suspect...

I had a similar problem with a similar boiler. It turned out that the DHW thermistor was not connected to the PCB - somewhere in-between there was a break in the cable, and/or a poor connection. If you turn the DHW potentiometer (the control you referred to) up and down, you should see the...