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Shame you are in London, neighbour just had identical job done with new slates by a well known local for £10k, even for London £18k sounds a bit steep to me, get another quote.

The days when "premature" bearing failure are long gone, used to happen back in the '60 -70s and I can recall having new big end shells being replaced regularly but I have not heard of that job being done for many years. Doubt if fitters these days even know how to do it, are you still trying to...

Yes I can remember those days and did it myself usually but modern synthetic oils are vastly superior which is why they are usually good for 10-15k miles and I recently read that a couple of manufacturers in the states are now warranting their synthetics for 25k! Similar story is now going for...

I don't honestly see the point of re-creating the "round" shape unless it is matched elsewhere on the building because it is not particularly attractive IMO. However, if needs must, I can see that it is in fact circular in which case measure the diameter then scribe the same shape on a piece of...

Then again I don't use concrete when replacing fence posts these days. I simply bang in some galvanized "spikes" then insert incised pressure treated posts into the spikes. Even the old red oxide spikes were usually good for 25 yrs and the galvanized jobs which are now available may well last...

OK they should have shown in Fig 4 that the earth cable is also connected via the choc blocs to the three lamps as well as the "L" and "N" but failed to do so.

I agree with Notch and John D having done exactly the same a few years ago. However, recently had new fence put in here by a fence man my neighbours hired. He never even tried to get old posts out, just levelled them and put new posts in nearby.

Please tell us what kind of lamps are fitted and or show us a picture of the whole thing. Some light fittings need to be earthed and some do not but the earth cable must have continuity back to the consumer unit to be safe and that can only be achieved by connecting your light fitting to the...

My old woodwork teacher (60 odd years ago) always made us do a drawing to scale, he was not wrong and I built my latest shed from scratch doing exactly that - far cheaper than buying a kit or ready made.

What a brill idea, a shed on castors. Personally I would use shiplap or 6" feather edge boards as I did last time I built a shed rather than cladding but I guess you have already bought the cladding. If you diagonally brace the corners of the frame as I did, it should be sufficiently rigid.

Always used LTP, not the cheapest but has kept my grout mould free for years.

I used some Johnstones acrylic satin a while back to recoat barge boards on previous house. Not as shiny as gloss of course but seemed to stay put and has high opacity. It was still on there after five years when I last looked, I think Wickes sell it.

My bro who was an Inchcape service manager handling RR and Jaguar/Landrover for many years says much of what the manufacturers and dealers recommend is pure money making and often unnecessary except for raking in the shekels. One of the classics is the five year timing belt replacement...

I also do not do many miles - usually around 4000 but I have a really great mobile mechanic whom I would trust with my life. He comes every two years and looks at all the important bits and advises accordingly. E.g. Brake fluid - "It's still clear and the hydrometer says it's good - give it...

Er with respect, have you not noticed that most people fix a wooden post to the wall then fix the hinge to the post? Why would they do this?

You need some "suction cup" bulb changers like these:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=Suction+bulb+changers&_sacat=0. TLC used to do them but not sure now. Moisten the cup surface stick it on the face of the G10 twist and pull the bulb straight out...

With that date the house would have been originally built using lime mortar which many people still regard as superior to modern day sand and cement. It does take a bit longer to set but has a tendency to "self repair". Knowing this I had my last house (built 1922) which needed some brick work...

Yacht varnish, I did a simiar job with a water based Ronseal product a couple of years ago but it's flaking off already. Wish I had used a decent yacht varnish in the first place, Sikens and Sadolin come to mind.

I suspect that you may have fitted the "hinge", correctly called a "butt" the wrong way round. They are designed such that when the door is closed the screw leaves lie totally flat against one another but they will only do this one way - take one off and try closing it one way then the other and...

What I have recently learned by replacing an old failed G4 halogen light fitting with LEDs:- 1. LEDs are best to have a "constant current" transformer" (often called a LED driver), so that they last a long time. 2. The output wattage of the transformer should ideally be about 20% more than the...