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Couple of thoughts. If you are in a hard water area, perhaps don't get one of those complex shower mixer jet things - you'll possibly regret it - Brothers got one and in 3 years everything has siezed up because of his very hard water. Do buy the best quality mixer you can afford - the...

Y those are decent, but you commented earlier in post #3 that the screw heads were too big for the fixings, also is that kingspan 45mm? if it is those corefix will barely have made it to the brick, but I expect in two layers of PB they'll be solid enough. They are a good fixing for PB lined...

This is true - always read the small print because they are all different. My own policy (NFU) only requires we inform them for projects >£50K "If YOU plan to carry out any work to improve, renovate, extend, build or demolish any part of the BUILDINGS where the estimated cost of the works is...

It was the evolution sliding mitre @ £99 - strange the link doesn't work. Re adhesives - if you're fixing to a smooth surface like plaster or PB, you can use ordinary grab adhesive - my goto is Geocell "The works" which has never let me down. Some of the cheaper ones are OK, but I find you have...

I'm absolutely sure it won't pull away under tension. We use those brass expanders in our work in hospitals to fix stuff to concrete soffits, and if they were prone to failing we'd be in big trouble and people would have stuff dropping on their heads through ceilings. I agree a pattress is best...

I think it'll be fine. I've used these loads of times. They provide an anchor that will never pull out and have as much depth as you want. You'd need to be considering stripping the threads in tension which is a huge force. The brass anchors won't pull out the brick without a very high load -...

Get some brass expanding anchors e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anchors-Expansion-Anchoring-Concrete-Masonry/dp/B0C7XYNTNN?th=1 and some suitable thread bar - they go right down to M4, so quite small. You put the anchor on the end of some thread bar and push it as deep as you like. With a couple...

Second the excuse to get a mitre saw, but that Makita is just a chop saw, although a very decent buy I'm sure. Far better to get a sliding mitre saw as they are more versatile - you will make much nicer external angles with a powered saw than using a mitre box, and for internal ones watch a few...

I'm not so familiar with JCT, but think the JCTs I have been in contact with, mainly with the MW form, are not as straightforward to understand as the NEC suite of contracts which I am much more used to. Maybe just my opinion, but if you have an opportunity look at the NEC engineering and...

@endecotp - thanks for the links. The deep moisture report I had seen before, the Scottish one not, and there looks to be some interesting case studies there. I think one of the introductory statements in the moisture report is important:- ....which echos everything I have ever said on this...

What is it you need accurate strips for? With OSB you're not going to be bothered about chipping, as you would with a laminate board, so one of the advantages of a track saw is not needed. If it was me, I would have the saw horses set up with some sacrificial 3x2's on top, sheet on top of that...

The problem you have, is the problem that is always there when you contemplate internally insulating - the wall behind will be colder as it will be insulated from heat in the room. If the room air is 20 degrees ish and around 60% humidity (average ambient in a lived-in space), the dew point will...

dry rot and dry rot spores are not in themselves considered a health hazard (google it). Like everything these days, everyone is very risk averse. Spores are everywhere- black spot on your roses? fungus from spores. The risk is if the conditions are suitably damp the spores grow, sucking all the...

I can see the problem. The dimensions were advertised as the extreme dimensions but because of the interlocks where the walls cross, the actual walls are inset from the ends of the wall beams. I would go with sloping fillets. It's a bodge but the alternative is to disassemble and change the...

It's dry rot not green monkey disease or asbestos. Yes not good for the pregnant missus, but nothing to stop you getting in there with overalls and masks and ripping out all the floor and anything that looks affected. Bag it and skip it. Then get a company in to spray everything. Also find the...

TA6 or not, this quote from the page I linked to suggests TA6 is irrelevant to the duty to disclose.

No you cant - that doesn't work. If the next buyer makes the same discovery, approaches the same parties, it is likely they will be told that this has come up before, then they know you knowingly withheld relevant information. It's one thing to declare "don't know" on the house information, but...

exactly. If it's about 800x600 it's ~0.5sqm. = +5kg for one pane and + 1.25kg for the increase from 3mm to 4mm = 6.25kg or a bit over 3kg a side.... If it's smaller a bit less of course..

You may be surprised how much weight you have to add. Many old sash windows had 3mm single glazing. If you go to 4mm DG @10kg/sqm each pane you will find you need 3kg+ each side to maintain balance. The problem is, with the small weight pockets, you may not have enough height. Also, if using...

This is why this forum is so educational - you learn something new every day :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: