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if OP is talking about just the unions he will only need jointing compound or 1-2 turns of ptfe, i think a few are getting it mixed up with 1/2" male iron thread going into radiator itself (unless its me that is confused)

oops did i say a month? i meant a day. doh.

im sure Agile could give a more suitable solution

iv had my ACs nearly 2 years now but been plumbing for nearly 10, took over my dads business this year and its the hardest thing iv ever done and sometime wish i was just the worker again. i dont claim to know everything, be fast and least of all price jobs properly. i sometimes wish id not been...

a customer of mine is still waiting on her certificate for a boiler i installed 2 months ago, gas safe said i was sent, asked them to send a copy to her parents house which the said they would but still nothing. iv had 7 other certificates for jobs since though

they just seem to push the housing up from the body and then you pull down the lugs to lock the body to the motor housing. i fully replaced the central heating valve with a honeywell as the last few ridges had been worn away as the motor was constantly turning on them without engaging fully.

sorry to drag this up from the past but thought i would let any plumbers know who might come up against it. got the new top for this valve and there was a warning inside saying "if valve that is being replaced has green fixing lugs please remove 2 springs from body" did this and original...

when did this start? have you stopped using your central heating recently?

its june, you cant still need your central heating in, your worse than my girlfriend.

to bass, definately sign yourself up to CC im in same situation as you, newly qualified but most of the guys in there are a real help, couple seem to forget they were new at some point but oh well. some good help on the business side of it in there too

black plastic. got called back this morning, no hot water. must have accidently disengaged the motor housing whilst working on the heating valve so was just spinning on nothing. i hate plumbing :cry:

iv never come across them before either which is what stumped me, thanks for the reasurance.

it was a Siemens (Landis & Staefa) top za-v222c.

definately fully engaged, i managed to get it working by washering the back of the new motor to build it up but it looked a bit bodged so have ordered a new top. got the old and new synchro here and there is a 3mm difference in spindle length, bought it from a non english plumbers merchants so...

needed to change a synchro motor today on a siemens 2 port motorised valve. got it all set up but the spindle from the driving motor was too short to engage the valve, has anyone else come across this? i thought all synchro motors were the same?

im a plumber and was fitting a disabled bathroom, last day of the job and final task, fit the grab rail. customer had watched for a full week which drives me insane and when i was marking out my fixing he asked me to move it a bit, it was friday, 4pm and i just wanted away so just did as he...

http://www.malvernboilers.co.uk/pdfs/combi_booklet_a4.pdf iv just had a quick look through but will let you properly read it but it should have a filler loop externally somewhere.

if you have tanks and cylinder make sure you turn off the hot side of the system before you cut into any hot pipes, it will usually be a in your cylinder cupboard. dont think because your water is off you can cut into any raditors. they will need draining down seperately. sorry if im teaching...

whats WB combi is it? could be the diaphram if you can only get hot water whilst central heating is on.

nah its a decent area so should be ok, iv got a powermax and have done the course too and dont find them too bad, especially the HE version apposed to the range. what would you usually charge for doing the cylinder and boiler? dont wanna be too cheap.