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Contacts on the gas valve do you mean? It could be the igntion of rectification lead have been pinched/shorted somewhere and sparking is now only intermittent due to this? Or the elctrode/flame rectification probe tips may be dirty, a dirty burner especially near the flame rectification probe?

soil pipe out of wall straight, at slight drop angle downwards (of course). so am safe to cut plastic stack pipe without risk of it splitting/cracking!!??

ok thanks for your help all. I just wondered what the odds were in this cold weather especially, of the soil pipe Cracking when sawing it!!!

sometimes I have heard drawing air from a return pipe (clamp on drain valve can be used) can draw trapped air from a CH system. May be worth a go?

ok i will have to decide, if i did crack the soil pipe (plastic and old) what would that mean?? hard to repair??

It's about an inch from the wall. I've seena few fitted like this before. WHat's the best way/tool to use to squarely cut the soil pipe, as there isn't much to play with.

drivel? it worked in my old system, it got air out of the pump area and allowed the system to then fill.

have all radiators got water in them?? vent them to check.

just filling the gap between the cistern and wall. Cutting the old soil pipe may be tricky and it could split and that would be a big job to fix wouldn't it??

there should be no gate valve on the cold feed pipe from the f & e cistner, this is dangerous and will cause pumping over. try turning h/w and then heating on at the programmer, for about 20 seconds no more, this sometimes draws water in and shifts air from around the pump connection. Is the...

it is part of a composite kit, it has the filling loop connection / gauge and expansion vessel all connected, and where the old feed and vent from the f & e came in, it has been fitted there and the feed/vent cut/capped.

sorry it is not unvented cylinder it is on the primary circuit, the header tank and feed was removed a few years ago. the prv was twisted a while ago, and dripped ever since. I do understand how unvented works, you have the expansion vessel or bubbletop, and if this discharged when h/w is...

sorry, yes of course, plenty of ptfe and hawk white then. the bib tap, when you screw in, you tighten as much as can but sometimes ends at a funny angle so you move back about 1/2 of a turn etc to get it square on, this can be done the same for the prv then??

When fitting a new close coupled toilet, as well as fixing a wooden batten behind the cistern onto the wall (if the wc is larger / wider than the old one) are there any other ways? I fixed a wooden batten to the wall behind my new one and it looks ok, neat, but i wondered if there were any...

ok, thanks. so if threaded, do i just wrap ptfe tape around the threads like for a bib tap? as the system is pressurised will this need to be very tight to stop a leak?

it's not a boiler, sorry, it's a sealed system package, the expansion vessel, prv, filling loop and gauge are all together in the airing cupboard.

try vent the pump. does the shaft rotate freely?? what is the resistance of the pump?

Is it hard to change a dripping PRV from a boiler in general? Are they threaded or compression fittings??

I'll close the valve a little and see. The noises are not just from this rad though. Maybe this has been going on for a while now, but being off today and the house quiet, I noticed it more. If it works new trv needed??

When the central heating is On (pump running, room stat calling) the raditor in my bedroom makes weird noises, clicking/tapping, etc. These did not happen before. Also in the airing cupboard where the pipe runs up from the boiler downstairs, it is similar. Could this be scale in the system...