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Try looking at the Broag Remaha Avanta 39c condensing combi 16 ltr/minute.... In my opinion far superior to your vaillants & worcesters. We work as agents for Broag and they only have a 2% failure rate on warranty defects (2yr parts & labour) The output modulates down from 6-39kw, dependant...

:oops: I take the oL comment back, don`t know where that came from :D

Low water content on gravity - noooooooooo Check for suitably rated fuse according to boiler/system Earth Continuity - Under 1 Ohm, between appliance earth & at various points around the case Short Circut Check - Between L&N Zero - ohms or oL indicates a short circuit (fuse removed...

:D :D :D :D :D

Tommygee... yes thats inclusive of V.A.T also... contact me via my email address listed on this site by clicking my name if interested...

Agreed Broag remeha avanta 28 is an excellent boiler (definate contender for vaillant g4u :D) Although I may be biased as we are agents for Broag.. Can provide including flue kit & free delivery £670.....

Switch the boiler to hot water only & just check after turning off the hot water tap that the burner is actually going out.. The water valve at the bottom of the boiler has a diaphragm with a pin that activates a microswitch on the servo & tells the boiler to ignite... these scale up & seize...

I believe its right what they say, especially in this case.... plumbers are failed gas fitters!!!!

you`re right gas4you straight trv4`s are not reversible flow! get your plumber to swap the trv`s with the lockshields, job done!

Considering i went to the british gas school of training in westminster, worked on the tools for 10 yrs, attend up to 10 training courses a year, work as an agent for:keston, broag & ideal, am qualified in N.G, LPG, OIL domestically, commercially & industrially not to mention part L & P..... how...

If you would have read the question correctly i was just asking for clarification...... :twisted: :evil: :twisted:

Hi i am changing an open flued appliance for a f/f next week..... Could somebody just clarify for me the correct procedure for decomissioning a redundant o/f discharging into a chimney stack??? I have just filled with rockwool and covered with aluminium plate in the past...

sounds like the trv`s have been fitted back to front, either swap the offending items end for end or....... suggest to your plumber that he replaces valves for 4-way reversable flow trv`s (drayton trv 4`s always a favourite)

more than likely the low pressure switch is blocked, bridge the switch out, removing one of the wires does the trick. drain down boiler, remove & clean L.P.S, replace pressure gauge at the same time.....

if the boiler fired when you manualy made the a.p.s switch this indicates the p.c.b is o.k It sounds to me as if the fan is running slow (replace fan assembly) also check for blockage in the tubes from fan to a.p.s

posted by ollski : A faulty diverter would bring the pressure up a great deal quicker than that, as already said the problem is a dhw hx. Who said anything about a faulty diverter? which incidently would not bring the pressure up........

apologies.... mis-read the posting stating over the period of time... in that case im inclined to agree with your diagnosis of a split dhw heat exchanger....

It`s possible that the diaphragm in the expansion vessel is split.... Remove the cap from the valve & check the pressure, should be roughly 0.5 bar, if you get water released from the valve as opposed to air this will confirm deteration of the internal rubber diaphragm.