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THats Ok. First you need to check your pump is working. With the boiler calling for heating you should feel/hear it vibrating. Then make sure that your heating and hot water is off at the programmer. Then remove the pump screw. Some water will drip out so have a towel ready to mop it up. It will...

William... Read my other post and check your pump. Its not hard to do and we can talk you through it. You may end up saving money as i dont think it needs a new PCB Undercover

I reckon its getting to temp before the O/H stat trips out. THe burner has lit. Some customers say they only see a flame for a minute when in fact 15mins have passed :wink: I still think that this is either pump or valve problem. If it turns out to be the pilot aseembly namsag, i'll buy...

from what i'm reading, the main burner is lighting up for a while before going out. That leads me to believe that the pilot assembly is OK and rectification is taking place. Hopefully the guy who serviced it 10mths ago didn't just read the paper, but cleaned the pilot assembly and checked the...

C'mon guys this is basic stuff. Boiler lights and after a few mins goes out? Obviously, getting up to temp too quickly then stat cutting out the main burner. Water aint flowing round the circuit.. William - check that your pump is working and isnt stuck. Remove the centre screw. A little...

If its sprung a leak then i'm afraid its done for. Primatics are just too expensive to replace. You'd probably be looking at spending £500. Just change it to a more efficient indirect cylinder with an F&E tank.

As stated earlier, i did the same. Cleaned and lubed the fan, cleaned the venturi. Worked perfectly afterwards.

is there space to get an adjustable basin wrench in ?

glowworms are well known for ignition faults. Maybe the problem is caused by a small child dressed in an insect costume sitting on top and obstructing the flue????

Went to a biasi with the same sort of problem today. previous guy had replaced both the thermistors. Turned out to be a faulty fan. Just needed a real good clean and a good lube.

gotta be a Biasi

i think this is the problem

you could try and backfill the system using mains pressure from your lowest drainoff. Do it slowly, venting each rad in turn from bottom to top. This may give a temp fix. But agree with guys above. Feed is blocked and needs cutting and replacing

Yes you can overtighten them. So its a little bit at a time. If the leak seems to get worse then you are crushing the lead. Your local waterboard should be called to replace the outside stopcock.

Stopping leadlocks from dripping comes with experience. Often they do need really 'nipping' up to get a watertight seal. I suppose the problem now is that you cant disconnect it and use some ptfe on the threads. I now always carry a couple of Philmac transitional couplers on the van. A little...

Could be a faulty C/H sensor??

Dont think this will work. From reading the post it looks like the toilet spiggot is below the soil pipe.

No-no-no. That'll ruin the symmetry of the bath. Best way would be to run a reciprocating saw down the middle, take 10mm from either side, sand it down and glue back(but don't use a water based glue). Will then fit snuggly

Hi Andy. I've just read your posts. I'm sorry this has happened and given us a bad name. It may have not been entirely the plumbers fault. The vent pipe to your primatic could have been blocked for a while. Your leak just started off the process. I bet the plumber just simply began a...

Remove the filling loop. It may be bypassing across into the heating side.