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Not the liveliest place is it?! I was working on three ships, should have been five but one was moved to Workington and the other to Portsmouth so had to travel to those two.

Not on a regular basis but quite a bit at the moment. Spent a week in Barrow then down to Portsmouth and am now two weeks into a five week stint in the Isle of Man. Still, at least I come home for the weekend. No fun though as we normally work 12hr days so by the time you're back at the hotel...

I'd stick to independent DOL starters with e/stops mounted on or by each grinder.

Are we not talking about simple pedestal grinders here?! Regarding the other machinery, he's going to install an e/stop into the same control wiring as the current e/stops. I think most of you are going way OTT!

Sounds fine to me. You've not carried out a risk assessment nor brought the machinery up to a safety category which was dictated by a risk assessment. All you're doing is installing some DOL starters and e/stops, some of which are just additions to existing. Already the machinery would be more...

Don't install the DOL starter and e/stop prior to the socket, install them on the pedestal grinder so the flex supplies the contactor and the grinder is supplied from the overloads.

With the grinders it would be best to either remove the toggle switch or just leave in the on position then install a direct on-line starter with integrated e/stop and fix to the front on the grinder. With the older machines, surely you can get to the internal wiring of the existing...

Use what you want but bear in mind the finish decoration and any potential cracking.

And another point - what about unswitched fused spurs?

There's nothing technically wrong with it as it's not like you can get your fingers on a properly shrouded fuseway and carrier. Unless the rubbish you're fitting doesn't match that description? I'd like to point out if I'm using modules in a grid system then I'd automatically put the fuse after...

Good luck then as from what I've read from you so far I think you're going to need it.

A junior hacksaw is used to score and snap the armouring away though you will need prior knowledge of how to make of a SWA gland before attempting it blind. I've not watched this myself but it should give you some idea

Why, does it not have a cover on it?

What about smells? Don't you want them extracted too? Have a dump, flush the bog, turn the shower on, turn the shower off!

Nope, they're small enough to slot through the hole along with junction boxes.

12V doesn't come within the range of Low Voltage. It's Extra Low Voltage. It's not just you who's confused, manufacturers are just as bad.

230V (mains) is Low Voltage!

Thanks very much for your advice, it's very much appreciated. Here's a couple of photos of the mechanism from another windows of the same construction. There's two locking points, one near the top and one near the bottom.

The square section of a multipoint locking mechanism where the handle on a uPVC window keys into has disintegrated meaning that when turning the handle the square peg has nothing to key into. Is there an easy way of opening the window in this case so I can replace the multipoint locking mechanism?