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Stair Parts

Hi, all loft ladders should be easy enough for a keen DIYer to fit himself as they are sold off the shelve, with regard to the hatch I would just buy another drop down hatch that comes with a frame and is insulated. It will probably be made of plastic and will come with fitting brackets and...

wooden and metal loft ladders

I have an online company and I know for a fact that online companies unless extremely well known have a bit of a bad name, not all online companies are bad, check to see if they have things like a contact us page, terms and conditions and distance selling regulations also check to see payment...

The only way to do this is to take a template of the stair radius and make the timber nosing in sections, obviously it would only have to be square shaped not molded but you would never do it in one piece, either that or have a section of wood sent to you from bendywood.com this wood can be bent...

You wouldnt want to use the same holes anyway because the strength would no longer be there, I used to do as above, matches and wood glue all the way

Yes, more than likely you will come across a grain change, this will be visable to the eye, if you hit that the timber will split badly and the plane will jam/kick back, then I would simply start again from the other side and meet myself in the middle, its always wise to scribe to the door frame...

I think Sadolin is anti slip, I always say never run around in socks!

I would slowly plane the front touching edge down or the rear touching edge down (depending on which way the wall was out) until I found the right angle, obviously you would leave the skirting long in case you went too far and cut to size when you found the right angle

Ok.. the timbers I would use are Sapele, which is similar to Mahoghany or Iroko which is similar to teak? Both are exterior grade timbers, both have beautiful grain and can be clear varnished or stained to perfection! The materials and labour in making the door would be more expensive but if you...

As above or just another off the shelve satin clear varnish, I hear bees wax is effective also but im unsure

I meant expanding glue, polyurethane! not the foam! I thought that was used in door and window installation :? sorry about that! :oops:

Im not saying use expanding foam in this situation but I used to swear by it when gluing winder treads or staircase strings together, the glue dries stronger than the timber but as above you must be careful with the fixings and use very little (because it obviously expands!) To be completely...

I would say howdens or looking at the recent commercials Wickes :|

Sorry to plug my company but we sell handrails in 2.4 mtrs, 3.6 mtrs and 4.2mtrs in various timbers and with all brackets and end caps sold separately, I hope that helps

I agree completely, do not try to plane it in any way, you will probably hurt yourself badly! Sand it up, clear varnish, four matching legs (the more rustic the better) and you have a beautiful little coffee table

Better late than never but going back to the planning of the door I would plane right up to the point where the grain changes and never plane right to the end of the door because you will split the end. Sorry its late but thats my advice :D

I would say bad idea, but.... oak is used outside all the time on front/back doors etc... I would recommend a serious amount of yacht varnish to the end grain if I were doing this, also bare in mind that if your worktop is around 600mm (which Im guessing it is) then it will be laminated oak...