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If there are any live water pipes to be found under that part of the floor/wall what would they be supplying - the supplies for the sink and the appliance(s) are drops from above. You must pull out the W/M and examine the supplies & skirting and wall/floor near the W/M waste but I doubt that a...

As above - the render should stop at least 150mm above ground level. The DPC should also be installed at approx. 150mm above GL. Typically, the render is stopped just above the DPC with a SS or plastic Bellcast - &, as suggested above, it must not bridge the DPC line. Use of any kind of...

Why not remove that length of skirting, & then post pics of the back of that piece of rotting skirting, the wall behind the skirting, & pics of the outside of the wall and window? The two pics you've posted are a bit fuzzy?

Yes, you are right: The original beds look like sand & lime, the more recent smeared on stuff looks like a very poor attempt at sand & cement pointing.

My original suggestion for lifting & replacing the whole floor still stands. The wood skirting plugs in the walls should also be removed. Rotten skirting would suggest that rising damp might be by-passing the blue brick DPC course. FWIW: you might try injecting Dryzone into the blue brick perps...

OP, FWIW: I suggested above what kind of initial approach might work for you? Whats the relationship between the outside ground levels & the internal FFL's? Is the outside rendered?

OP, Your pics will not open for me?

The gap is merely the difference between the quarry tiles and screed, and the sub-floor and wall. Where is the quarry tile over earth - please show earth? The blue brick course is your DPC. Is the exterior rendered? "towards the other end of the house" means nothing to me in terms of location...

Is there a chimney flue behind the loose brickwork? Is that an outside wall? Standing on the floor above can you take a pic showing the wall or chimney breast above the ledger? I take it that you've used sheradised hanger nails - although, FWIW, all hanger nail openings must have a nail.

As professionals, here's how we would approach your situation: The room would be cleared & the whole carpet and underlay would be lifted. Perhaps, the lengths of skirting from the inside corner out would be removed for examination of the skirtings backs, and for damp signs in the lower wall...

If I understand your post then the best practice option for you would be to dig out the floor to an appropriate depth, & and pour an insulated slab over a membrane (DPM). The idea that you can leave the quarry tiles bedded on earth without damp consequences is well wrong. Why not post pics of...

What I'm suggesting is for you to remove the tile and then post pics of whatever kind of surface the tile was laid on..

Post pics of the prepped floor when its ready.

I wrote "Screwing down slates is rarely done except for very particular circumstances" and "I've only used screws for particular purposes". AAMOI: I've never "worked on a roof with thin rafters and a delicate plaster ceiling". But my above quotes indicate that I would use screws if the site...

Oldwinger 78, The porch is obviously unsafe and not fit for purpose. Dont go on it or allow the porch deck to be used for any purpose. Much propping might be needed while remedial repairs take place - in fact, you might be looking at a complete demolition of the porch and a re-build - not just...

There's no signs of lipping or loose grout - & the floor looks flat. The tiles appears to be too tight to the bottom door frame - & grout has been used in the edge join instead of some kind of color matching sealant. IOW: theres perhaps no room for expansion - and you have UFH and its a "sun trap"?

Pics of the inside floor will help. You will now have to most likely lift all the suspect tiles and post more pics when the bed is exposed.

Takes longer to fix with screws & if the correct laths are fixed with correct fixings at correct centres then a little vibration is irrelevant to the experienced worker. The clout heads on roofing nails have a wider hold-down without the need to take too much out of the slate. Screw heads are...

No, no big deal whether it can be repaired or replaced.

There are a few signs that indicate the original installation to have been a DIY or amateurish job. Remove any proud adhesive from the wall and clean up the tray rim. Cut the plaster board across to the corner and expose the studs. Clean up the tray rim. Screw on a panel of 12mm backer board -...