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OP, You can hire a small corded breaker from HSS for instance for about £15 -£24 per day. The chisel will remove any render in minutes. With the breaker on site why not then take off the render up to the elec. surface outlet height at least. You could also take the opportunity to channel in the...

Whoa, slow down, I made it clear that I wasn't criticising you - so why be so fragile & sensitive. Read what I've written not what you think I've written - nowhere, for instance, do I suggest that its good practice to "jam the undercloak in". I'd previously imagined that you were a working...

I've not read the whole thread, however: Its not best practice to use ply or PVA on a wet wall, but that was not the cause of your simple troubles - Ply & PVA are not guaranteed to fail. And if they had failed in your enclosure, then they would have failed differently from what you say & show...

OP, You have so many joins in the floor and the remains of the dividing wall - (with celotex presumably the edge insulation for a concrete slab?) - that inserting movement joints is not practical. Perhaps the simplest thing to do would be to follow Tiler number 2's recommendation regarding...

If you are happy to leave the joists and plate as they are, & are sure that all is dry and sound then dont do anything else. However, I always remove all signs of wet rot damage. I would be suspicious of the plate and deeply probe it near the wall side. I would also probe all the affected...

OP, I think that you've picked up bags of the wrong sand - what you describe could be a coarse sand used for paving and landscaping but not for render. It has a correct name but I cant think of it - maybe someone else can?

Thanks for the photo. The carpet can be lifted quite easily off the grippers, and there's no call from me for you to go "ripping up" anything. Perhaps leave the carpet alone. What you can look for with very close observation, and by sniffing for a musty smell close to the skirting on either...

Dont cut anything shorter. For the time being, simply pull in a little slack from under the unit, & arrange the spare hose high in the sink unit below the work top. But leave enough slack behind the appliance to enable you to easily pull the appliance out - you dont need a lot of slack. Hard...

As mentioned, overflows are notorious for collecting smelly waste. One of your pics shows a drain hose connected to a spigot on a trap - whether that hose is from a W/M or a D/W, best practice is that the spigot should be pointing up, and that the connection be secured with a jubilee clip. The...

Its not clear to me what you have actually settled on - why not, for a start, post pics of the floor area and some dimensions? Does the old WC floor have a membrane below it - is this floor what you call the "new part of the kitchen"? The hearth might be a source of possible rising damp? Does...

OP, For the record, use a utility knife to cut and free the skirting from the paint, paper or sealant, & then slide a scraper down the back of the skirting to free up and lightly lever the skirting piece away from the glue. Pre-cut any mitred, scribed or butt joins free from sealant/silicone...

First thing you might do is put some pics of the job on here.

Again, with respect, I'm merely saying this is how we do it but I'm always interested in how others do jobs. Not always but mostly, we find that its never best to point wet verges after fixing the verge tiles. Pointing can push the S&C back on to the battens, & it doesn't guarantee to give full...

The pic shows a wall and skirting that seem to be affected by rising damp. Why not remove the skirting, & hack off some of the render back to the stone - to just above the clearly seen "tide mark". And then post pics - a close up, and a larger context pic showing the (is it?) chimney breast on...

I've suggested above how to do it properly. Your door and frame are incorrectly installed, and will soon start to perish in that exposed position.

Professional installers dont need a householder to start sourcing basic fitting dimensions for them. Let them do it, thats what you are paying them for. Hopefully, they've fitted a Bi-fold before?

OP, Are you saying that both sides of the single skin wall in question have been D&D'ed? Have you examined the floor wall/skirting abutment below the carpet? What your pics show is not condensation. Damp internal walls with chimney breasts can often trace the cause of damp to the chimney...

As a safe min. your risers should be 175mm - 185mm and the treads approx. 250mm. I presume that there is an in-situ roof sheltering the steps and doorway? If not you will need a canopy of some sort. Determine your dimensions & then dig out for a min 150mm concrete foundation and build up the...

OP, I only speak for how I do this kind of verge. You can see the felt below the undercloak tiles, this is its correct position. IMO its not important to bed the undercloak tiles on to the felt. The bedding mortar I'm referring to goes on top of the undercloak tiles. Then the verge tiles are...

OP, You are talking to the right people. Just let your Bi-fold frame & bottom rail be installed, and then come back here with a pic or go to the carpet supplier with a pic. The frame installers should be more concerned with the external side (water tightness etc.) not the internal. Your...