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I'm not saying that BCO will be involved but if you change the steps & an accident takes place then your insurance will perhaps not cover you. Given a proposed rise of 2": Your first/bottom riser will rise by an extra 2" from ground level. The bottom riser will now be 2" higher than any other...

Before blocking off the opening you should remove any flue liner and have the flue swept. Using a wood frame and plaster board is fine but you must insert a vent in the p/board - the flue must be vented at the bottom & at the top with a correct terminal on the stack. The "old vent" is...

Research on here using the search button.

I doubt that your "supposed construction" diagram is accurate. Depending on what kind of cover (tile or slate etc.) you have on your roof then soakers & cover flashing are often used - or raking abutment flashing. Flashings should not be "cemented over". Why not google pics & diagrams of roof...

Grinding out the beds means angle grinding out the bed and perp mortar into a recess about 20mm to 25mm deep. Salts are part of the rising moisture - but salts as such dont blow off the cover, moisture does that.

chris_o, I'm not sure who the everyone in "Why is everyone recommending ply" is? I mentioned "cement board is ... often used". And that 12mm ply was "adequate" not necessary. Neither was there a particular call to detail the prepping & fixing of any type of backing.

Its not a case of each to their own when advising a DIY'er of the most simple way to do a simple skim job. If professional plasterer's wish to make work for themselves - so be it. But the DIY'er might now have to deal with a surface thats been pulled out giving him possibly more work to...

OP, The steps, as they stand, would not meet current Bldg Regs. You must be careful about building up the treads with re-surfacing mortar and 20mm tile thereby altering the riser dimensions. Until you have removed all the tile and adhesive, & thoroughly cleaned off the surfaces - and posted...

The OP has filled the divots, and PVA'ed twice - he doesn't complain of uneveness or out of plumb, and its been also been recommended that a tacky coat of PVA be applied? In other words: the surface is flat, and the suction has been taken up - why create work?

To answer the question: All things being equal, then pour it just as you would when keeping it low to allow for a screed or anything else - all concrete surfaces should be flat and level, & prepped as such. I wont rehearse them here but there are a number of methods for pouring and working in...

Why bond it - for what purpose would bonding be needed?

The black ledge - is it a projection of the edge of a concrete slab or something else? It will be trapping and pooling water that can then make its way inside the wall and up the wall. Your pics show what looks like some form of water penetration. If you remove a length of skirting & examine...

You might be better off by first removing the structure, and then posting pics showing the clean area thats available to build in? What exactly do you want as a replacement? Pull the breaker to isolate the lean-to electrics before doing any demolition.

There are a few difficulties with your stairs: You will have to establish what they have been built with - it could be masonry structure or an 1 1/2" sand & cement layer over a timber frame. How come there are cracks in the "concrete" treads & risers? The curved cheek shows signs of water...

OP, Why not remove a length of the skirting, & post a pic of whats behind it? Also why not post a pic showing the outside wall - ground level area?

I've never claimed that Limelite (or sand & lime render) "should always be used on a chimney breast". Using remedial materials is case specific. If there is salt penetration or surface soot or any signs of damp penetration then use the above remedial materials. Many c/breasts are floated &...

You work to your FFL - meaning: room must be allowed for in your total depth dimension for say a tiled or wood finished floor that flows into the adjacent room(s). For the average extension, or solid interior floor, we hardly ever use a screed/SLC on top of the typical 150mm of concrete...

As above. OP, Are there any signs of damp inside the house? Do you have cavity walls or solid? Is the inside floor solid or suspended? You have strap pointing & what looks like a gloss paint job - they were applied as remedial measures for previous moisture problems and both are bad choices &...

Quite what you mean by patching out damp & blown plaster here and there I dont understand? You dont post pics so how can we know the extent of things as they stand? Neither have you researched your question on here - there's masses of info on exactly what you ask in the plastering & building...

OP, Be cautious about taking advice from DIY'ers who google their garbled answers 5 mins before they post - just saying. What is your purpose for carrying out repairs in a rented bathroom? Do you have any idea that you may be, or maybe not, opening a can of worms involving bath packing, the...