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Thanks Bernard, no I hadn't considered an isolating transformer for this purpose. Seems like the aussies have an off the shelf compact product for this purpose, but nothing for the UK market (after a quick google search).

I am toying with the idea to install a "non standard" socket next to my CU on a circuit that will not be RCD protected. The reason for no RCD protection is because the appliance is a calibration checkbox with RCD testing and requires it being powered from a non RCD protected circuit. Hence the...

So with the alarm in test mode can you unscrew the door contact and unscrew the two wires to the contact, then put them together and again apart. Does it then give zone indication? That will then prove one way or another about the door contact and we can move onto the next part.

The op said they replaced the door contact already hence why taking this to the next level to try identify if the cable is damaged somewhere.

What alarm system do you have? Have you traced the wiring for the door contact back to the panel to ensure the cable is good/not damaged/shorted (use a multimeter to help you determine this)? Does the door contact have its own tamper circuit or looped into a global tamper? Does the contact have...

First off why do you need 20-30% overhead to be safe? are you planning to run other items from this circuit? you already would have about 15% overhead on the stated rating of a 32a MCB if its pulling 27.5a. Also depending on the MCB type the trip current could be anywhere from 3-20 times the max...

If installing from CD as a fresh install and not upgrading (i.e. you don't care about saving any of the data, files, programs etc..) then yes choose advanced option and delete all the partitions and then install on a single new partition (possibly auto creates its own). Also note as you are...

I would initially agreed with nest that its a wiring issue. Can you post some pictures of the wiring to each component involved? What model boiler do you have? Have you or the electrician/plumber tried to run the HW without the nest?

Yes clockwise, assuming its being undone on the outside of the cistern. Anticlockwise if your undoing it inside the cistern.

It depends on your perspective to it as to which way to twist it.... lefty loosey righty tighty.

I am going to assume its also some signal/impulse being sent over those AB/SX lines. Guess you will need to either return/not use the switch, purchase a second one, or not have the secondary light switch. I assume its something slightly more complex than a momentary short between them otherwise...

I have no idea how they are handling the other switches over those S & X terminals as they don't seem to follow logic, unless they are sending a specific signal over them that only those switches understand. In which case using an ordinary 2 way switch will not work, and it requires that...

Can you get it to work with only 1 switch wired up and leaving out the other switch altogether? In this instance you would only have a live feed into the switch and the switched live in one of the outs. Can you post pictures of your wires?

Hard to say what you will need as it all depends what comes with whatever you buy and size of wastes etc... taps might come with flexible hoses or nothing etc... you might need some 15mm copper pipe and solder, torch etc.. or maybe you aren't comfortable with soldering so you will use...

Your not trying to match the colours at the light switch's to the colours in that diagram are you?

On a quick glance, L is your common (live feed), then the 3 outs are the switched live for up to 3 different rooms/lights. S & X look like they are for wiring to other light switches, although I cant tell if they can be normal switches or only this type. So the two other wires that go to the...

If its already RCD protected in the consumer unit there's no guarantee which will trip first. You might struggle to terminate armoured cable to that plastic enclosure and indeed you might make it no longer be IP66 rated if not done right. If it is indeed a spur your going to extend then it will...

Its likely that switch requires a neutral, do you have a live and neutral at the switch location? Do you have a copy of the instruction or link to the product you can show us? Also does the product meet British standards and your confident that its safe to use? I would always be very cautious...

Yes that's the connector block to provide mains to the oven, I believe that white connector on the left is the cable entry point. Make sure you use appropriate cable and make a good connection on all 3 screw terminals. This post seems to have the same style oven/connector as yours (don't do the...

Looking good, wish I had some friends with favours I could call in for an extension I'm planning :LOL: