Search results

Why is this needed? No water would be going in the boiler, or out, for hot water. The pipes would be empty and not connected to the cold water supply...

I meant just a normal combi. It would be like having a normal combi installed but not using the hot water facility. Is there any reason you can't do it?

Is there any reason not to? Just cap cold cold water in, hot water out. There's then the option of getting rid of the hot water cylinder in the future and using it as a proper combi without having to purchase a new boiler. System boilers are also more expensive, with less inside...

Yes, if anyone does it, it won't be me! I think it's shared as it is downstream from me, so I will get in touch with the water company. The only concern I have is that I am the first house in the block of terraced house, so my connection to the next manhole is not shared with anyone.

Looks like the blockage is downstream?

Good explanation but if I had a normal pipe terminal and no AAV, this would never have been detected. I'll look for that blockage...

I initially thought it was a blockage and tried a few easy methods to unblock but they all targeted a blockage just after the toilet. Ok, will lift manhole cover and have a peep.

The water level doesn't rise without an AAV in place. Isn't the issue with air flow/pressure rather than blockage?

Hi, I've got a soil pipe terminating just under my upstairs bathroom window. There's an AAV on top. Since it's been installed 2 years ago, it has been working fine until 10 days ago. I noticed the water in the toilet would rise excessively when flushing. I first thought it was a blockage but...

Another question. Is biocide required for UFH because of the low temp, as opposed to inhibitor for the rads? How do you stop the biocide mixing with the water in the rads? Is the ufh heating somewhat isolated from the rad heating? If so, how is heat exchanged?

Good point. I didn't realise this.

I'm considering UFH for an extension. It's supposed to be so efficient because of the low water temperature required. But a blending valve is needed to lower the flow temperature from the boiler. So the water has already been heated to a high temperature (for the rads) and is now being cooled...

Thanks, I think I got lucky this time. I didn't know it was an fcu till I had a look.

Yes, just one outside light. I would assume as well that the cable connected to the load terminals goes to the light. Yes, single brown is on the supply side.

Lighting, so both kitchen lights and outdoor lights are dead. A bit odd to use an FCU for this purpose, isn't it? But I think it's going to help me.

The socket above has nothing to do with it. I installed the socket myself for the fridge and cooker.

There's a T&E in for the supply to the FCU and one out for the load (outdoor light). There's a single brown insulated wire connected to the supply side to provide a live for the 3-way light switch next to it. At least, this is my guess.

Yes. Looks like I can just take the neutral from there?

It's one kitchen ceiling light, 2 switches to control it. One switch is behind the fridge and this is where the outdoor light switch is. So I'll be moving both by a few cm if I go ahead with this work. I'll have to take the pictures later. But as far as I know, it's all wired the standard way.