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Does it actually feel wet? If it's appearance it might be due to the light or time of day etc - if it is physically wet even when it does not rain something must be going on

it is a bit suspocious the leak is exactly where the rawl plug drill hole is? I would want to check where all your pipes are - i.e. sink, washing machine, outdoor tap, incoming water supply etc

Must be a buried pipe in the wall behind the plaster then if you have defintely checked behind the cabinets for any surface mounted pipes. Maybe at some point punctured by a drill etc? and now leaks when under load/flow? I had a leaky radiator valve that only ever leaked when the rads were on...

Or just wait for a dry day and use some guerilla or duct tape and tape along the crack, for 6 weeks will be fine im sure - or or just pop out the length of guttering and replace with another piece

I would replace yourself or with a builder etc. If you ask them, im not sure they will unless its dangerous/missing, and then you could open a can of worms if rules have been broken. Plus the cost I imagine would be born by you which would be expensive rates, plus the damage/mess left behind

Just table it out, so you have a nice waist high platform to slide all your junk into and out from. The costs to change any of that structure for storage would be crazy and you would end up doing damage to ceiling etc.

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Maybe they were still living in the house for as long as possible/ for as little disruption as possible

Is there a particular reason so much condensation is happening in the gargage? What is the garage used for?

I think you will be OK without a lintel - you have block wall internally and they bridge the gap that narrow opening within a course or so, so not a lot of dead weight there, and the brick leaf opening looks like only a few bricks wide also

Looks like the vapour barrier was on walls only not ceiling? and not silver tape or foaming joints?

Sounds like your stove will be set in the room rather than set back within the chimney void. If so why didnt they core an oversize hole for the flue liner and try and be smart about it, rathat than such a big opening, replastering etc etc now lintel

Taper top of board so it runs into the curve? or also board the curve and taper until it runs int0 flat part of ceiling? assume that slope is also uninsulated so would benefit from insulation?

https://www.msn.com/en-gb/news/world/terraced-house-collapses-moments-after-homeowner-put-key-in-door/ar-AA150ToR?ocid=entnewsntp&pc=U531&cvid=d042a212776040b2b967a1f7ded690ad#image=4

yes because the chimney does do sit exactly in the centreline of the ridge - and the tiles was explained above by others.

definitely the same stack

I had traditional sand and cement render done, with some lime added. Painted afterwards. Finish was as good as K rend if done by decent plasterers who know what they are doing. Im not sure why traditional render has fallen out of fashion - maybe the painting but that can easily be topped up -...

SO exposed timber joists? Are you actually gaining any useable space by doing that? You will still have to lower your head to travel in the room?

I believe per building regs once a chimney has been lowered to within the loft void it must be capped to stop anyone inadvertently using the fireplace still and filling the loft with smoke/fire (in case someone forgot the chimney was no longer venting outside??) Similarly unless you have...

i used the same adhesive to attached the insulated plasterboard direct to the bricks. Removed the old plaster right back to bare brick, but the walls were built out of line and level so bad i opted to insuilated plasterboard as oppose to PIR as its more rigid and held itself nice with line and...