Search results

I'm surprised planning consent was given (assuming it was).

Cartridge=gland. The O-ring is halfway down the gland. The valve seat is in the tap housing and shown in post #11.

Try a thinnner O-ring/ rubber washer on the cartridge, so that the blue seal can press fully against the valve seat.

That's not normal vibration. Possible causes: Not all feet touching floor, Excessively unbalanced load, Machine case touching a kitchen unit, Worn/missing vibration damper, Loose/broken component.

The solder should flow all round if the parts are well fluxed, but it needs sufficient to penetrate well into the joint by capillary action. If the valve contains a seal, be careful not to damage that with excess heat.

It depends on the power of your heat source, and whatever other pipework you have connected to the T (which will conduct heat away from the T). Clean and flux the parts to be joined, assemble them, and heat up until solder applied to the joint area melts freely and gets drawn into the joint.

I have a non-vented system with a combi boiler. A downstairs rad has its flow and return pipes in a drop-down loop connected to upstairs plumbing. Both pipes have isolation valves near the rad, but one valve is weeping at the spindle. I would like to replace this valve without draining down the...

Putting all one's eggs in one basket does seem like a disaster waiting to happen.

Wouldn't the wipes be broken down by fungi, rather than bacteria?

In that case the water could be drawn in by capillary action between the tap base and the flange, then run down the threads of the fixing. Try some sealant/mastic between tap and flange, also between the under-bath seal and the bath itself (to fill any gaps due to the rough underside).

Sounds as though the seal between the taps and the bath has failed. Can you tighten those big nuts underneath the taps?

I'm surprised. Under the Data Protection Act the Data Controller of the organisation which manages the database is legally liable to keep it accurate. The pharmacy should address their concerns to the Data Controller.

As a temporary bodge you could cut out a matching piece from under the bed, where the hole won't show. Double-sided carpet tape can hold it down. The patch would be noticeable though, because it would have less wear and tear than the main carpet (unless you're constantly moving beds around the...

Definitely sounds like the blade is no longer parallel to the base-plate edge. Can you drill/tap and use extra screws to ensure parallelism is maintained?

Dig out soil to the left of the post base, pull the post upright, repack soil tightly around the upright post and tamp it down. I think the post would then support the panel in the groove.

Newspaper, polythene, almost any sheet material... held in place along the skirting boards with masking tape.

There seem to be several water drops elsewhere on the valve body. Are you sure your assumed leak is where you've arrowed?

Would a replacement handle be attachable?

If it is indeed an old washer, then thoroughly clean out all the remnants and get a new washer from a plumbers merchant. Or you could try a suitably sized O-ring.

I didn't have much luck with suction fittings like that. The rack fell off after a couple of weeks. Close inspection showed slight undulations in the tile surfaces, which presumably allowed air to leak very gradually into the fittings.