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They're part of the cable grip assembly you do need to put them in for t&e so it's gripped properly This is how it should look, in the second pic you can see the gap with the cover on is about right to grip a bit of t&e, without those extra bits in place it won't grip properly

Possibly old substandard red and black t&e where the red insulation has degraded and turned brown, are you able to IR test it?

Yes i can imagine... mine is in zone 2 (which is ok as they are ip45 rated), so steam from a shower sets it off very quicky

I've found the envirovent ones work very well when set to the most 'sensitive' setting

Cheers guys I'll try squishing a standard z bar I reckon and see how that looks, just had no idea what methods people normally use or what products there are and google wasn't really that helpful!

Hi all, What is the correct threshold strip to join carpet to click LVT which is only 4/5mm thick please? As you can see a standard Z bar strip does not work it leaves a rather big gap on the LVT side. Cheers!

Thank you I'll give them a call see if they supply caps!

Ah yes I know I could just put a cap on the pipes but I was wondering if theres a specific cap meant to cap off the outlets?

Hi all, I need to cap off a pair of radiator feed/returns on this manifold, does anyone know please what size caps would fit?? I've only got the box cause the plumber that fitted it chucked it under the floor :ROFLMAO: Cheers

Thought I'd just crack on and double up the joist and notch it properly, glued and screwed, no stress with the inspection now. Can't really put bolt and nuts through it as the face will be visible, may get some 140mm lag bolts and put them in place of the screws though

Or would I get away with lag bolts or normal bolts?

No all the steps are the same the staircase was bespoke manufactured, the joist is in the position its in because thats the size of opening the staircase manufacturers had on their plans, its just a few cm off. That sounds like a good plan I can run another length of timber along the whole...

Sorry not quite sure what you mean by this

Hi all, Just a quick one we're in the process of building a mezzanine floor with a staircase and we're going down the official route with building control etc, I am just wondering now that I've done it will building control be happy with the top newel post of the stairs connected to the joist...

This sort of thing https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/rstbtwpan-rak-resort-toilet-pan

Yes - I don't think I've seen many about either. But almost everything on the market apart from bog in the box type toilets seems to be described as rimless, maybe a new thing as I don't remember that being the case a few years ago when I was last looking for a toilet for another bathroom

Hi, I'm looking for a new back to the wall toilet for use with a concealed cistern in my downstairs WC. Almost everything on the market appears to be rimless, I've heard mixed things about these from water splashing out or the flush not clearing the bowl properly. I'll be using a 6 litre...

Personally I've had good luck with Ansell and Fusion (cef own brand) bulkhead lights, they have 2/3 different lumen settings which is great if you're not sure exactly what brightness you'll need, and they're CCT, but internally, not from the light switch. I'm not a fan of the ones that change...

I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as they are LED, which they almost certainly will be, I doubt the tenants would want to pay the bill for leaving older incandescent sets running all the time! Even the dodgy LED sets online aren't so much a fire hazard rather an electric shock hazard...

For an exact replacement, if you buy a set of 100 chaser lights (any colour) from B&M they will have the exact same power supply. However, going off your reddit post, if the new 3.5V power supply you tried didn't work at all, I'd suggest the fault lies within the lights themselves. With that...