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The fact that the hot water is at mains pressure is NOTHING to do with the pressure in the rads, boiler and heatstore. I assume you have the version of the B-M 2 with a header tank on top of thestore itself. That's where all the water in the rads comes from and the pressure will ONLY be...

Sounds like it's airlocked. Where are you located?

I must point out first off that the wiring arrangement of the fridges, etc. was NOTHING to do with me! My job was to install a new boiler, cylinders, plant-room plumbing & solar panels. NOT electrics! Since both fridges went bang at the same time, the voltage drop explanation could be it...

Someone explain this: House under refurb but still occupied. Two fridges connected to extension lead, along with a 230/110 transformer, for site tools. Tranny NOT powering anything at time of 'incident'. Someone plugs a standard kettle into a spare socket on the connector strip. Kettle...

Hi If you're CORGI-registered, you could maybe help yourself and other RGIs by joining ARGI. See www.argi-online.org.uk

The major problem with a pressure accumulator is that it's covered by a (UK) patent and is therefore more expensive than needs be. (IMHO, the patent should never have been granted, given similar use of similar accumulators in hydraulic systems going back to Victorian times but that's another...

I think if I turned up at my local Building Control to try to notify a cylinder swap, I'd be in the same sort of position as the Monty Python character trying to buy a Cat Licence at the Post Office (and eventually getting a Dog Licence with Dog crossed out and Cat written in in biro)! They...

Loads of examples in bathrooms and cloakrooms: plastic plumbing under floor, chrome connections to towel-rail, WC cistern inlet, ...

Fact remains that Plumbcentre (and most of the rest of Wolsey Group: all the .....centres, plus Bathstore.com) seem not to care much about competitive pricing. Maybe it's related to the high cost of the bananas needed to keep the staffs' knuckles from dragging along the floor! :D (forgive...

Let's focus on the fault! Loss of pressure control is most often due to a problem with an expansion vessel. There are three main faults: - the EV itself no longer works because the internal diaphragm has a hole in it and the whole volume is full of water, -the EV no longer works because...

Look for scorch marks or other damage on the top, left of PCB. There is MAINS VOLTAGE at this point on the PCB, so watch it! Due to a 'design oversight', the pin carrying mains from one of the plugs onto the board often overheats and becomes (partly) detached from the copper track on the back...

There's no problem with any Return temperature below 50 or so degrees, so long as it's OK to push the boiler into condensing mode (it is in this case- it's an HE boiler) AND the difference between Flow and Return temps is not greater than recommended (usually up to 20C degrees). There is one...

How else would you connect a PEX pipe under the floor to a chrome-plated pipe on-show? (Just in case anyone failed to realise the problem: push-fit connectors are NOT generally reliable with chrome pipe. The grab-ring teeth tend not to grab and one day when you least expect it the fitting...

You haven't told us the boiler model so it's difficult to assess the full situation. I'm assuming for now it's a Vortex of some sort. Grant advice clearly states that Return temperature should remain ABOVE 40C degrees. In a typical situation (without any blending valve(s) and / or with Return...

Disagree. IF the UFH system has it's own pump (usually between the blending valve and the manifold Flow-side actuator valves), the flow through each active loop (about 2litres/minute) SHOULD be sufficient to ensure that the temperature drop in the loop is not enough to be a problem. And I...

errr - sorry Simond, your link led only to the Grant Homepage, so until now I didn't actually root around to find the 'Grant Efficiency Optimiser' which is presumably what you had in mind. However, having had a look at the info about this gadget (such as it was) I get the distinct...

So long as it's not filling up the cistern with hot water (!!), may be the only effective option short of changing the cistern valve for a low-pressure type (or, if possible, adjusting it for low-pressure operation with a bigger 'orifice'). It's a pity options were not discussed before work...

...in which case, the best option will be a 4-port blending valve, which will reduce the temperature TO the UFH AND ensure that the Return temperature remains high. (I'm surprised by Grant's statement that 40C degrees is hot enough to prevent condensation).

An important factor IF the boiler is NON-condensing: YOU MUST NOT REDUCE the operating temperature (ie. wind down the boiler thermostat) to the point where condensation might occur inside the boiler. Each boiler of this type will have a stated range of temperatures which are 'safe' for each...

Oh dear - why make things so complicated? The valve on an EV is a standard Shrader valve - as found on ALL car tyres (and some bikes). It IS a valve, so if air comes out of it when you remove the pump, it's broken! To restore the EV preload the procedure is utterly simple: - decide...