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Separating Vent and Cold Feed CAN mean that the pressures where each connect to the rest of the system are different. Then you can get problems with water running out of the vent pipe when the pump starts up / all the time it's running OR air drawn down the vent pipe. Both lead to aeration of...

So maybe Agile and Bamber are the same person - well, it's a good Conspiracy Theory! :D

Sorry to point this out, and never mind about BG's diagnostic skills and repair techniques, but based on your latest remark about lockouts and flashing warning lights, my strong suspicion is that ALL that is (and was?) wrong with the boiler is flow below specified minimum. BG can change the...

To achieve THAT would require secondary TAPPINGS and the Megaflo ain't got any!!! Don't blame me-I didn't fit it. (As it is, the secondary Return from the bronze-body pump that IS fitted goes into the cold feed to the cylinder, with inconvenient consequences. Best I could do was fit a...

Probably safer to assume that to burn at all at a jet the gas mix in the pipe must be ABOVE the UEL (15%) (otherwise, it would probably 'pop' and the flame would not sustain). I reckon in practice for a pilot flame to sustain reliably, you need maybe 40 - 60% gas in the pipe, otherwise the...

But note that 'Trust CORGI' may be misleading as a general policy! :D (although most CORGI REGISTRANTS are trustworthy!)

You MUST NOT fit a towel rail onto a hot water circuit under current regulations. There ARE plenty of examples of copper-tube towel rails in mansion block bathrooms fed off centrally-provided hot-water circuits but not allowed under current regs. Apart from anything else, a STEEL tube rad...

I think the WB illustration is wrong (differs from the Installation and Maint manual), or overkill, anyway. For practical purposes, all that's required at that point is (as G4Y says) a manual air-vent (abbrv 'AV') rather than an Automatic Air Vent (AAV). You'll notice the two diagrams have...

Before you even THINK of tearing up the floor, WHEN do you want the HTR to be hot? With a combi, it can only POSSIBLY be when the central heating is on and active. There's no output from a combi to be used for an all-year-round towel rail. You COULD use an electric HTR (costs about 150 watts...

If your boiler is GC number 47-311-71 (ie. a WB GREENSTAR 30CDi Conventional) I think YOU'll find that the 'air vent' referred to on page 10 of the manual you probably looked at is a pipe, not a valve!! PS If it's NOT that boiler, what other 'WB 30CDi' are you referring to?

Pressure inside the pipe relative to atmospheric is only going to be +20 - 24 millibar to start with. Presumably, with this very small over-pressure, silly things like weather-related changes in atmospheric pressure may have an effect...? What about partial-pressure calcs at VERY low net...

I think you'll find that in general on internet advice forums you only get advice once. If you ask the same question twice, you're just wasting bandwidth, and people will react accordingly.

I think it's fair to say that the heating installer / maintainer industry is in Deepest Sh1t! Something Must Be Done (but I've no cure-all ideas).

IMHO, he MAY be a 'good character' AND nice to his mum, but on this forum he BEHAVED like an abusive git and resorted to personal abuse when none was deserved or justified. Better elsewhere, if you ask me. Nuff said.

Oooh, you are a ONE! Actually, you're an idiot for ignoring the advice you've been given. I really don't CARE whether you (personally) want to (probably) waste your time and money fitting an auto air vent to your system -anywhere in the pipework where there is positive pressure while the...

The bypass setting is NOT related to the pump: it's to do with your boiler's required minimum flowrate. The combination of bypass and smart pump may not do what your boiler needs. The pump's smart logic probably calculates what actual output pressure it's producing (I assume the Wilo one...

Stepping back and looking at the whole picture again, I'm struck by the mismatch between your boiler and the rest of the setup. The WB19/24 is already quite old and inefficient. Moreover, it has a requirement for quite a high minimum flow rate and does not (it appears) have much capacity to...

The ONLY boilers that are any good are ones with heat exchangers that don't corrode. Stainless steel is a good start! The advantage of a pressurised system is that there is very little chance of air getting into the system, so no dissolved oxygen, so no corrosion in radiators. Some...

Fitting an auto-vent will NOT fix problems caused by air getting drawn into the system! The key problem is NOT air collecting in rads; it's oxygen dissolving in the water. Oxygen in water causes rust, especially in radiators. If you leave it like that, your rads will rust out and leak in...

With a Celsius, in most cases if you can't SEE water coming out of the bottom of the boiler, it ain't leaking! The exception is a hole in the pipework inside the combustion chamber, which means that water leaking inside the boiler is coming out along with the condensate water. It should be...