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Hi Lucy, To be honest with you I still haven't finished it! I work 6 days a week and only get in the attic on a Sunday most weeks. I'm planning on getting the steel and window fabricated by Easter and then fitting it shortly after, I've had to wait through the winter, my gable end is South...

we're doing something very similar with our loft conversion, I can't give you an idea on labour cost as I'm doing all of the work myself but the steel is calculated to span 6m and will be made from 2 x 180x90x26kg PFC welded back to back, I've had a price for around £1k to supply/fabricate. I've...

I wouldn't say Tony was the one who's scared off any other posters. It's more likely to be your attitude, you've come on here asking for help, he's trying to clarify what you're actually trying to gain and you're acting like a d#ck. I've actually got 2 layers of superquilt between and above...

what size are the steels and what are they supporting? Usually M12 bolts at 600 centres for timber bolted into the web.

As long as the stairs you've designed fit in the space you have then that's all you need on that website as they make them to fit within building regs. Don't forget to include the depth of new floor joists plus floorboards/ply/chipboard/etc in your floor to floor height, you'll have trouble...

Stairbox have a good stair builder on their website (it's what I used to get an idea of what I wanted/sizes/etc), I had mine delivered from TK Stairs last night though. They were slightly cheaper and I had great service and delivery to be fair.

This is probably in the wrong section, should be in floors, stairs and lofts. Stairbox have a good stair builder on their website (it's what I used to get an idea of what I wanted/sizes/etc), I had mine delivered from TK Stairs last night though. They were slightly cheaper and I had great...

You could still use the supplied brackets and screw them to the top batten.

There must be studs in that area (if it is a stud wall). Even at 600mm centres there should be 2 for you to fix to. You need to screw a batten top and bottom into these (2 x 1 should be enough) and then screw the cupboard to the battens, there would only be a gap to the right hand side as it...

When you said gaping hole I thought it was massive! Best bet would be to find timber / studs and screw into those. Short of fixing a batten top and bottom, which would leave a gap around the sides, that's the easiest option I can think of.

You'd have to remove enough plasterboard to expose the studs and screw in noggins horizontally, in the same area the cupboard was to be fixed. You could find a rail or just screw a batten to the outside of the plasterboard (top and bottom) but they'd need to be fixed through the timber studs...

Depends what kind of wall it is, stud or block? If it's stud, try and attach the cupboards to the studs (I'm assuming the hole you mean that's left has ripped the plasterboard off?) - or fit new noggins in between the studs to screw into. If it's dot and dabbed over block, fit some battens to...

Thanks for your input guys. Woody, I've ordered the padstones from Travis Perkins, I just wondered about leaving a gap or not for the steel/lintels. Thanks for your help!

Ok, thanks

Hi Tony, the building regs use 440 x 215 x 100 padstones. I've just never fitted beams this way before so was just wondering whether to leave a gap or not. Thanks Thanks Woody, that's great. WabbitPoo, is there any point in trolling DIY websites if you aren't offering anything...

Hi All, I'm about to start a loft conversion and about to fit the steel work. I have 2 x 10400mm 203x133x30kg steels (spliced) that run the length of the bungalow and these are bolted to 203x102x23kg beams that run in line with the gable ends (acting like lintels running over windows/doors). My...

Thanks Tony. I've just put a different proposal to my architect so ill see what he says.