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Thanks guys for your help

Cheers thanks Taylor

Bel Ch602T re hob. Ideally using the same circuit for ease if it’s got to be hard wired, not sure why I thought it was a 13A I’ve not really looked at it as I’ve been installing some of the cabinets but I’m upto the oven housing now so sorting the wiring before the carcass is the right time...

Hi Taylor , Sorry I meant 32A, it’s just how the light caught the label yes it’s neutral , earth , l1&2 It’s a built in oven and hob both belling, The oven is a bl160fp, not actually unpacked that yet but I think it’s just a 13A switched fused spure but need to check. Not sure atm what model...

Hi, Would it be ok to use a 30A breaker on this? The cable looks to be 6mm? I was going to connect it to the current cabling which is 10mm to 30A breaker or should I reduce it to a 25A? I’m fairly confident that L1&L2 go together on a single phase but I don’t have so much pride that I don’t ask...

Hi I’ve got two sections of my House to render ( top section) Im Intending on using one coat render with two coats scratch and skim /top coat… however due to Time commitments I’m gonna have to do it on different days, I wondered if I get my scratch coat down how long could this be left please...

I’m no renderer but I would think no, you’d be better rather rendering it correctly to get the depth so it is even and doesn’t crack or get some cement board , fill the joints and paint that

The rust damage are on the two drawers I’ve removed, the carcass holds 4 drawers I’ve put the corroded ones in the bin so there’s two currently in the carcass Thanks Jake

Hi deluks It’s the sides Thanks

here’s the sizes :) Thanks Jake

Hi John , I’ve got The screw for the runner and no no other defects. Yes the drawers are metal, as mentioned Something damp Got left in the and got Damp and corroded. I’ve checked for some number sn number etc and there’s nothing, the carcass is 18mm Thanks Jake

Hi John D , That makes for your reply And Apologies For the lack Of Detail, two of my drawers are beyond repair it looks like they have had something damp in them If it was just a mitre joint of bottom Board I’d fix them But it’s beyond that lol . Here’s a couple of pics … I’ve actually...

Hi, Not sure if this is the right group But there isnt a kitchen fitting one Lol . I’ve got a 500mm kitchen drawer unit that holds 4 drawers… does anyone one know if drawers are a standard size please as two of them are on their last legs! Thanks Jake

Here you go my issue! I’ve had to close the cavity of the new bay window as I can’t have a gas pipe in a cavity due to the regs and I just can’t figure out how to get around this! Thanks Jake

Hi Tiger I’m happy to have it anywhere and yes aware of the regs sort of which is the reason its Causing a issue lol Thanks

Hi cdbe, That’s the issue I’m having that there’s no where to move it to :( Can a metal tail pipe be put on? If so how far under the ground does it have to be? I’ll take a pic of my dilemma lol

Hi, I know it’s a plumbing question however people Reply more in this group lol I have a external metre with a yellow mdpe pipe coming up , as Im Building my bay window this is now inside which I know has to Be metal or sleeved With metal… I just wondered what metal Would be best and does it...

As many know on here I’ve just finished one , if it’s 1x3 metre and upto 3 metres high then it falls under permitted development … if you can afford to loose the space for a cavity I would Choose that with brick / dense block on the outside and thermolite on the inside… I couldn’t do a cavity...

hi How much space do I need to leave around this pipe? Thanks Jake

Thanks exedon I get what your saying and a gas safe engineer who is registered will be soldering it to the system however what my question is isn’t about connection it’s about regulations of a gas pipe in a stud wall… there’s no joints in said pipe just a pipe I just want to get the wall studded...