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One of the reasons for doing this is that our flow rate is pretty abysmal. Our neighbour who has a similar lead mains has much better pressure and flow. A good plumber friend pointed out that there are two bypass stop valves right after the lead to copper join and he wondered if they were...

Is it allowed to connect to old lead mains underground, with a lead to plastic coupler? We cannot afford replacing the whole lead pipe from the road, but need to enter the house before the current entry point.

If you wanted to go one step further, maybe there is a way to route out a shallow rebate on the edge faces. Then any protection will merge with the stair surface. Something like this https://www.nationalstairnosings.co.uk/flexible-pvc-square-stair-nosings-2-75m/ but narrower.

We have decided to use click-lock vinyl plank. The cost is fairly equal once you account for adhesive etc.

Hi Daz, is the feather finish screed necessary if the ply is sufficiently flat. I know manufacturers quote things like 2mm deviance across a meter. Does the feather screed cover the whole surface or just the low parts?

In the bathroom I am going to lay ply over the floorboards, then adhesive for vinyl planks. Are there any points to watch out for (never done this before). I have laid click-lock type flooring and it seems to me the only difference is the adhesive. I imagine the planks need to be carefully...

A flat I once owned had bare wooden stairs (just stained and varnished) the leading edge always received the most wear. If you can find something like a metal edge protector in black, that wouldn't look to out of place, I would suggest doing that in addition.

We have had a lot of plastering done in the last year and I have found it really difficult to get emulsion paint to adhere and cover the metal beads. So on some new plastering, I had the thought to buy some metal primer in white and spray the beads only first. Thinking that the primer will stick...

Jeez....just use one of these! Just 4 Brazilian $$, a bargain that works anywhere, gas, BBQ, camp fire, has never broken down and requires minimal IQ.

I don't know if this is a generally known tip, but I discovered that the solvent used to clean up UPVC windows also does a great job on any foam that gets on skin. Yes, I know, someone wasn't using gloves! It works a treat and you just wash off with soapy water.

In one room, in our house, there is a short (600mm) stud wall pier that creates a small alcove. But at 600mm it is really 30-40mm short to allow 600 deep wardrobe + fronts to fit flush or set back slightly. What if I simply cut long lengths of plasterboard, stick them or screw to pier, then tack...

this one: https://www.toolstation.com/tis-voltage-detector/p97153

I just bought one to replace a neon screwdriver, much safer! How are these supposed to work. Do they detect AC anywhere close to an AC wire? When I changed a single to a double and turned off the relevant circuit, it still went off. Could it be there was a cable in the vicinity that was hidden?

If you mean on topside, not sure that would work with fitted carpet. No access to backside. I did have one thought, long screw at 45deg through riser into back and hidden edge of tread.

Just took up the stair carpet to replace. The stairs have always creaked a bit, but a previous owner had screwed angle brackets to the back of the tread/risers. Has anyone tried this and made it work or is it a false hope? The brackets do look a bit weedy, but anything wider, longer, sturdier...

OK, thanks. Much prefer a wall switch to a pull.

I just want to confirm whether I can place light switches inside the bathroom. I looked at the zone system and I think I understand the restrictions, but would appreciate some confirmation. We want to swap out the pull switch for a wall switch. The position, beside the door, is about a 1.5m...

All our UPVC windows have these ugly bits of plastic strip that covers up a narrow gap between inner wall and frame. I can see why they are used, simple and effective way to bridge the gap. But are they really necessary? On one of our windows I recently replaced the timber window cill and now...

It is one of these fixed overhead rain heads. I'd imagine it comes off the fixed pipe, so do you think one of those would still drop in?

A friend wants to give me Hansgrohe overhead shower mixer, but it's not their ecostat water saving type and the overhead is rated at 17l/min. I guess I can regulate the flow into that shower to mimic the Hansgrohe built in regulator, or not?