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Hi Woody, My intention was to find out the root problem then re-render (in that order) if it came to it, and I get what you're saying. Yes, I'll seriously consider what you've said about filling the crack with those materials, it sounds logical, thank you. I'm figuring if the crack gets wider...

Thanks for flagging that. So if I did mastic it, it would be best to do it after a long dry spell presumably? So Foxhole, do you reckon I should remove some render from the top where the crack starts and where it's at it's widest. At least if I do that suppose I'll know if there is a crack in...

Ken, thank you for your contribution and highlighting the main virtue of this technique by helping the "professionals" relax a little : - ). Even without that aspect though, to me it seems a lot less hassle than re-rendering the wall. My thoughts are also that if this was due to subsidence...

Thanks foxhole. Looks like you are adding to the consensus that leans towards "it ain't a major issue" (he said with caution). From what I gather cutting out the cracked bit, and I presume you're saying just the crack itself, makes for quite a bit of work to try and make it look reasonably...

Woody, as far as I can see, the render has no crack in it below 1M from the ground. Are you thinking that in spite of he render's crack only being hairline at 1M, there might also be a continuation of it in the brickwork itself, underneath the render reaching the ground? Eagle eye for clocking...

Sorry Woody, forgot to say there's no plasterboard involved, it's a solid brick wall.

Hi Woody, thanks. As far as I can see without taking the render off, the lowest the crack goes to is about a metre from the ground, so no, it doesn't go all the way to the ground (if that's what you're asking). I would need to take the render off below the point where the crack in the render...

Hi Blup, thanks for your input. I thought I'd put it out there because I'm clueless about this stuff, but I am aware that the direction (route) a crack takes is a big clue as to the route cause of the problem. I've been here years but my attention hasn't been drawn to it until now (new...

Hi all I was wondering if anyone might be able clue me up on a crack I found in the rendering of a wall. We have a circa 1985 extension at the back of a Victorian house and there’s crack in the pebbledash near the corner of this SW facing wall. The crack starts a couple of feet (61cm) from...

Thanks gasbanni, that's really helpful. All the best.

Thanks JJ I'm not sure that the ingniter is the problem yet as I still need to have a look at it and I've spent ages on Google Images trying to identify it, but thanks anyway. My mum has lost the original manual and there's no badge with a brand in it on the fire itself. I was hoping to get...

Hi all I was wondering if anyone might recognise the make of the gas fire in the attached photo (and model if possible). It's my mum's and she has just been told that it became obsolete in 2015 and therefore needs renewing as the parts are no longer available. I thought this was a bit harsh...

Woody, thanks. You know what, I'm such a doughnut, I've just been through some paperwork and found that we were fire risk assessed in 2012 upon the sale of one of the flats and awarded a certificate. It says the: "Fire Risk Assessment Certificate certifies that the freeholders of 23 Sample...

Thanks Bosswhite, I was putting that high on the consideration list and may well do that. Thanks Doggit, Slight amendment, two of the floors are sort of split level, so there are seven stairs up from flat 3 to flat 4 (the highest flat) i.e. flat 4 is not a full story above flat 3. Also, can I...

Hi All, I live in a converted Victorian house which has 4 flats over 2 floors. We are all owner occupiers/leaseholders and each have a share in the freehold. I was wondering if anyone can help in defining whether my home is subject to any sort fire regulations. In each flat there is an owner...

Could be, but wouldn't they have to have a big stack of pre-Assa genuine Chubb locks to modify. I wonder about how sustainable that would be, curiouser and curiouser.

Quite correct John, I should have said Union or (Assa Abloy) not Chubb and you're right, I've got the box the 3R35X came in and Union/Assa Abloy is all that's on the box. It's so sad a brand like that dissapearing, but there you go.

I called them and asked how much it was. £235.08 inc VAT and delivery. I asked if it was made under licence from Chubb but the person I talked to didn't know. I just can't see the same lock anywhere else on the interweb either. Strange indeed...

That actually looks like it could be a solution if push came to shove. I'll take a look at that later, cheers.

Thanks a lot John. I had a look at a bunch of Eurocylinder based solutions and didn't fancy them for the reasons I already stated, but thanks for the info. The nightlatch you added a link to, actually looks like a nice job if you're willing to sacrafice the lack of surface area it can utilise...