Search results

Thanks

Forget to say, i'm secret nailing... Thanks for the reply woodyoulike. - is it because of cupping in the old boards or to prevent it in the new? Any thoughts on using spongy underlay with secret nailing? BTW, do you sell osmo products?

Hello again. just about to lay (finally) Solid 20mm T&G oak on top of existing pine t&g floor. have been advised to use sisalkraft 420 building paper between the layers. just wanted to ask too is there any merit in using the 3mm foam stuff too? sub floor is even, i'm only thinking of it for...

Thanks for the reply.

Is no-one interested? sorry if this has been answered before.

Hello All, just about to lay solid 20mm oak t&g floor. part of the floor is concrete (modern with a dpm) which i will be battening. i understand i should use a DPM on top of the concrete before battening. should i just use the usual black polythene or is there another product i should be using...

Thanks again. one final thing, for the DPM can i just use normal black polythene that i would use for under screed or does it need to be breathable etc. again if oyu could reccomend anything it be grateful.

Thanks for the reply, fair enough, i was guessing at how much expansion gap to leave. 15mm it is. should i not fill it with anything then? I think i do mean hardwaxoil. any reccomendation on brands and where to get hold of it?

apologies in advance for the long post... i'm about to lay 40m of 90x18mm solid oak t&g in my living room\entrance. the living room has had a through lounge, half the floor is the original Joist + T&G (all fine, i've been under!) the other half is a screed laid in the last 2 years with all...

I'm afraid madison marfil hasn't been in production for a LONG while. in fairness to the dealers you have contacted even if they did have some 'lying around' the chances of them being the same shade are tiny, and a different shade may as well be a different tile as looks go. the only advice...

I can post a pic, bear with me. i think i get what your asking now, the incoming supply has just 2 cables L+N, can see any earth going back to the supply. So the RCD is safe, just likely to get nuisance trips etc?

absolutely certain, i've had the face off the consumer unit and the bus bar is common for each mcb, i have also just tested by turning it off, it turns the lot off. Ahh, so if the earths use plumbing for earth would that be a TT supply?

Apologies, the lights are on 6amp mcbs - being stupid. the rcd says on it ln = 80amp, un = 240v. Dont know what you mean by TT supply, can you point me how to check? It says l(triangle)n = .03a, does that mean its a 30mA? sorry if thats a really stupid answer.

hello all, been in my new house for 5 months, finding some nightmares! just noticed that the RCD on the consumer unit protects all circuits and the top rating shown on it is 80amps, i'm adding things up and the total load could be much higher, there are 2 x 50amp circuits (shower and oven) 2...

I'm not a sparky but you'll need the rating of the oven to decide, from memory if its below 3.2kw then you can plug it in but its unlikely a range will be below this - its more likely ot be somewhere around the 5kw mark. if so then you'll need to run 6mm cable from the consumer unit on a 40amp...

yep i'd heard that, which is why is was posting here... I'd rather not follow your suggestion purely because of looks, if i have to then thats fine, but i'd rather avoid it if poss. Can anyone firm up on this subject? Thanks again for all your time.

Thanks for the answer - i'm lucky that they are 18mm all round - we specified this so it would take the weight of the granite tops we are fitting. The cooker isolator would be at the front, near the top. the socket would be quite 'hidden away' (and high so theres no worry about water getting to...

Hello all, i am in the middle of a kitchen installation, i'm doing lots of the work myself and am having building regs certify. i'm told they need to come out at first fit and then a second time. in the last house i owned i did the rewire and a leccy friend did the consumer unit and testing, at...

no i didn't, meant 1:3 - its late !