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Please see attached from the nest pro install guide for the nest ‘e’. The thermostat is USB powered. This sends information to the heat link. The heat link is battery powered. This is connected to the boiler to which it sends on / off commands.

It seems to function perfectly well via USB without batteries. The top - purely decorative - cover would need to be removed / altered to leave it plugged in permanently but in my scenario (empty house) this wouldn't matter.

The nest 'e''s thermostat is powered by a USB adapter in the UK (although it does have a small lithium backup battery to cover power outages). The heatlink has a micro USB port and is not a storage device. It transmits an on / off signal to the boiler. It is recommended to power this via 2 x...

I have a nest 'e' (UK) and the heatlink is powered by AA Lithium's which should last 'years'. The heatlink has a USB port which for 'fun' I decided to plug into a USB 3-pin adapter. The heatlink can seemingly be powered successfully by this. Will any longer term damage happen to the heatlink...

So the Nest 'E' has arrived. I've set this up so it should be a case of wiring it in and switching on when I travel to Italy in a fortnight. It took a while - the Nest App knew I wasn't in Italy and that I was in range of a Nest Protect device I own. This meant I had to temporarily change the...

It seems so. Presumably I cap the brown & blue wires off if I took the ‘e’? It’s not ideal because the batteries may run out whilst away although the ones in the Hive last and I could use lithium to extend life.

I may have a donated ‘nest e’ system coming my way. Looking at the wiring diagram am I correct in thinking the heat link hooks up as per attached. Presumably the nests thermostat is powered by separate mains adapter?

I have a first generation hive (replaced the faulty hub with an updated one) at our UK house and it’s been fine. The thermostat is the ugly one but it sits on the wall and does it’s job. A heating system isn’t something I’d really want on display in the house whatever we think of it :0). We...

Thanks. As long as I can keep an eye on things remotely and alter the temperature remotely when travelling to / from the house then I’ll be happy.

Thanks. Appreciate all the help and advice!

Ok so now I’m a little concerned/ confused as to whether I should get the ‘stat I’m looking at. This is the boiler it will control. From memory it’s plugged into a 16a socket. Like many houses in Italy it has both 13a and 16a wiring with certain appliances only capable of running from select...

Thanks. I’ve attached a photo of the current ‘stat. It’s not got a time switch - just on/off and temperature. The WiFi switch I’m looking at installing is here: Qiumi Smart Wifi Thermostat for individual Gas/Water Boiler Heating...

I neglected to mention the system is in Italy. Superb. This is great and I’m confident I can sort this when next visiting. Now to find a suitable blanking plate / surround to cover the back box.

Hello I’m looking to install a basic WiFi thermostat into a holiday home. The existing thermostat has 4 wires into connectors labelled 1 to 5. I have a attached photo. The manufacturer has provided a wiring diagram for the WiFi stat but I’m unsure which colour wire should go into which...

Thanks everyone. The system has a pump run on so not sure a core could be freed up? I've given British Gas a call. They installed it (!!!) less than 12 months ago. They've offered to re/install it (at a cost) which I'll give some thought to. My concern now is whether they're...

Thermostat wires are tucked away behind the new wireless thermometer holder and are - I assume still connected to the jumble of wires somewhere... I agree that it should wait until after Xmas but with a little time on my side over the holiday I may plan it.

On my photos there is one showing the (messy) wiring in the airing cupboard (blue box). The black lead (three from the right) is the mid-point valve wiring. Am I correct in thinking I can wire the hive receiver into the opposite connectors to this lead (along with a live and neutral...

The Hive has three parts- a wireless thermostat / controller for the CH and Hw; a receiver (situated where the time clock used to be and photod previously) and a hub which connects to the internet. The 'missing' wiring discussed is behind the receiver. In theory this could be moved to...

I will double check later but from memory and from zooming in on photo, I don't think so... I assume without any unused cores then it can't be done?

The cylinder stat turns HW on/off successfully (tested by altering the dial). Programmer is set to pumped (checked how to alter on the BG website). It seems the HW off wire is missing behind the programmer / time clock as per above. Can I insert a link wire behind this?