WiFi Thermostat Wiring

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by sgreenwood1, 28 Oct 2021.

  1. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    F33EEAE2-6996-4F00-8E29-5FCDE19F7D5D.png 55550F10-00F4-42FF-8C4C-F3C2EE4B62F4.jpeg




    Hello

    I’m looking to install a basic WiFi thermostat into a holiday home.

    The existing thermostat has 4 wires into connectors labelled 1 to 5.

    I have a attached photo.

    The manufacturer has provided a wiring diagram for the WiFi stat but I’m unsure which colour wire should go into which terminal. Please see attached diagram.

    I would be extremely grateful if someone could advise which coloured wire should be placed in which terminal on the new stat.

    Many thanks!
     
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  3. RandomGrinch

    RandomGrinch

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    Hi,

    Your old 'stat has the wiring layout marked on it (left hand side of image).

    On the new thermostat, you could try:
    Brown wire (Live) to connector (4)
    Blue wire (Neutral) to (3)
    White and red to (1) and (2),

    (Making sure the power to the 'stat is isolated first!)

    ...and see what happens. :)
     
    Last edited: 28 Oct 2021
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  4. ericmark

    ericmark

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    Looking at your photo upload_2021-10-28_9-11-1.png
    1 = Line = 4 on new thermostat (brown)
    2 = Neutral = 3 on new thermostat (blue)
    3 = Normal closed not used and not available on new thermostat
    4 = Common = 1 on new thermostat (white)
    5 = Normal open = 2 on new thermostat (orange)

    5 and 6 are only used with the underfloor heating version.
    Not seen Modbus used in domestic in UK, there may be a conversion module to make it OpenTherm but I would just ignore it.
     
  5. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    I neglected to mention the system is in Italy.

    Superb. This is great and I’m confident I can sort this when next visiting.

    Now to find a suitable blanking plate / surround to cover the back box.
     
  6. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    Two points

    when u set the stat up, on the menu there will be the option for temp sensing by room, floor or both. Only select room, or you will get an alarm that a floor sensor (NTC) is faulty!

    If you already have a separate time programmer for heating, set it to always on, or your new stat will not get power at heating off times.
     
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  7. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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  8. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    Modbus is a data communications protocol from 1979 and specifies the hardware and character format for the transfer of information and/or commands between industrial equipment.

    OpenTherm is a "language" specific for home heating systems that uses Modbus ( or a variant of it ) to transfer information and/or commands between the components of a heating system
     
  9. ericmark

    ericmark

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    I think it is down to part number with the BAC002 series of thermostat.
    A : Two pipe; Control Fan Coil Unit and Two Wired Motorized Valve
    M: Two pipe; Control Fan Coil Unit and 0-10V Motorized Valve
    E : Four pipe; Control Fan Coil Unit and Two Wired Heat Valve and Two Wired Cool Valve.
    N : Modbus RTU coms
    B : BACnet coms
    W : wifi connection
    K : Keycard
    W2 : Window
    E : External Sensor
    T : Clock
    P : Programmable

    For example: BAC-002ALW See instructions I don't know if I have right instructions for your thermostat? but did note some were 5 amp others 16 amp, so care in selecting is required.
     
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  11. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    Ok so now I’m a little concerned/ confused as to whether I should get the ‘stat I’m looking at.

    This is the boiler it will control.

    From memory it’s plugged into a 16a socket. Like many houses in Italy it has both 13a and 16a wiring with certain appliances only capable of running from select plugs.

    Is there a suitable wifi ‘stat that will work on either the 5a or 16a ? I’d chosen a cheap ‘stat because it’ll rarely get used (just when visiting in winter etc) but if I have to spend more to guarantee compatibility then I’ll do so.

    Or am I barking up the wrong tree having misunderstood your previous post?
     

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    Last edited: 28 Oct 2021
  12. RandomGrinch

    RandomGrinch

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    I believe your current thermostat is rated at switching 5/3A (one will be a rating for DC switching) from a very zoomed in view!
    So no need to worry! ;)

    Screenshot_20211028-085131_Chrome.jpg
     
  13. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    Thanks. Appreciate all the help and advice!
     
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  14. ericmark

    ericmark

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    It will work, most thermostats work, as to if it will work efficiently don't know, but for holiday home does it really matter?
     
  15. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    Thanks. As long as I can keep an eye on things remotely and alter the temperature remotely when travelling to / from the house then I’ll be happy.
     
  16. ericmark

    ericmark

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    I use Nest Gen 3, and I will not pretend it is best, in fact at moment it leaves a lot to be desired, but they have released remote sensors to US market just waiting for UK release.

    The geofencing works well, never flown since installing, but distance from nearest airport should be enough time to heat house. But things are evolving, back in 2018 Hive was next to useless, today it works really well, they released linked TRV heads which transformed the system.

    Where the thermostat is located will impact on how well it works, also how well whole system is set up, in mothers house the hall cooled faster than any other room, so thermostat in hall worked well, this house the hall is last area to cool, so thermostat in hall is not that good, last house was open plan and one thermostat controlled whole house without a problem.
     
  17. sgreenwood1

    sgreenwood1

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    I have a first generation hive (replaced the faulty hub with an updated one) at our UK house and it’s been fine. The thermostat is the ugly one but it sits on the wall and does it’s job. A heating system isn’t something I’d really want on display in the house whatever we think of it :0). We don’t use the geolocation function as it’s not required with our lifestyle but otherwise we ‘enjoy’ using it from our phones and appreciate it when we’re away and realise we’ve left the heating on etc. The holiday function is a great tool for not wasting energy. We got the Hive because the nest couldn’t control our hot water cylinder (at the time - I believe it’s added this functionality now).

    I have considered a nest ‘e’ for the Italy house but thought it was overkill / too expensive and the wiring actually looked more complicated?

    If you think the cheapo ‘stat I’ve linked is a poor choice feel free to speak up as I’d rather get something decent / more reliable if necessary.

    We inherited the house in Italy. We didn’t / don’t particularly want it but we’re keen to look after it and make it run efficiently. I have a few camera’s to monitor it remotely and a ‘stat would add value / protection as last year a) my son left the heating on for 6 months and b) there was 30cm of snow with the ‘stat only set to 5 degrees.

    I appreciate it’s a first world problem and we’re very fortunate so don’t wish to come across badly.
     
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