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I'll concede it's not an obvious link :)

Just a link to a Yorkshire Tectite Sprint Female Coupler 22mm x ¾" on Screwfix I think. Maybe you can't link to screwfix? Or maybe it was the "female-coupler" bit :mrgreen:

My test with less bulbs yesterday evening was interrupted by one of the kids switching the light off. Must be the first time in 20 years that either off them has switched a light off. Only seems to happen after an hour, but if it is getting too warm I'm thinking it might be best to swap it out.

Cheers It's in the loft mounted to a brick wall so plenty of cooling. I'll try disconnecting some of the lamps & see if the remainder stay on.

They're also Aurora: 2 x 12V MR16 7W LED: http://gb.auroralighting.com/Products/Lamps/Specification-LED-Lamps/12V-MR16/12V-MR16-7W-LED-Lamp.aspx 1 x 12V MR16 4W Non-dimmable LED http://gb.auroralighting.com/Products/Lamps/Economy-LED-Lamps/12V-MR16/12V-MR16-4W-Non-dimmable-LED-Lamp.aspx...

Its an Aurora AU-LED2512CV 1-25W 12V DC Non-Dimmable Constant Voltage LED Driver: http://gb.auroralighting.com/Products/Power/Constant-Voltage-LED-Drivers/1-25W-12V-DC-Non-Dimmable-Constant-Voltage-LED-Dri.aspx

I have a 25w max LED transformer powering 2x7w and 1x4w LEDs. Works fine but after a while all 3 LEDs start to flash on & off. Is the transformer duff or am I using the wrong rating?

Lots of trims at: http://www.floorandwallsolutions.co.uk/ Normally you'd put the trim on before you tile (part goes under the tile or Wedi board in your case) so you may have to get creative or just use one of the corner protectors that stick on afterwards.

I think the wrap around look looks good but you need to take account of the need to centre on any major features - windows and toilet cisterns - where any lack of symmetry will show and that you don't end up with slithers.

If the plaster's very new then you need to leave it to completely dry or your tiles will drop off. Don't use PVA or paint, use a specialist tiling primer or SBR.

Best to remove paint as any tile stuck to it will be stuck to the paint not the wall. Cement based adhesive dries by chemical reaction. Tubed relies on exposure to air which is why there's a tile size limit. If they're small tiles then tubed should be okay but bagged is usually better at...

You'd be safest to remove any paint and it would also be better to use cement based bagged adhesive and separate cement based bagged grout. However, it depends what tiles you're using. If they are 6" ceramics and the area doesn't get wet then you'll probably be okay.

Installing jointing tape to the wall & tray: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOxmDKMWDec I'd follow this for fixing the tape to the wall/tray and wall corner and then switch to: Installing membrane: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkaJ0dRhY0g http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9eirjftU0c...

I can't see how you'd use them other than as a feature wall tile. I'd image that they'd be very fragile. Do they come with fixing instructions etc?

I think you have to go a look at it. Topps get some cheap nasty stuff in sometimes and sell it at a discount. As well as holes / filler there can also be a lot of shade variation with Trav.

Aren't the stone veneers already bonded to a porcelain tile backer?

It probably is best but not as easy to apply as paint on tanking. You'll need a 3/4mm notch trowel and don't try to use rapid set adhesive - use slow set, mix it on the wet side, pick a cool day and prime the wall to stop moisture being sucked out. And make sure you don't trap air pockets.

Not a great idea to tile onto OSB or Chipboard though whatever adhesive's used.

Your better tiling onto bare plasterboard than onto skimmed board so just use tile adhesive. Use a straight edge to get it reasonably level - doesn't have to be perfect if it's being tiled.

Your going to clean and seal them after they've been down for 2 years? In the shower?