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I think transit wax can mark tiles. I'd ask the supplier what they suggest to clean them or are going to do about it if it's a fault.

You might be using the wrong adhesive if they're falling off. I've just taken up a bathroom floor - Trav onto ply - and it had to be completely smashed with an SDS chisel to get it up. Well bonded doesn't describe it. These days of course stone onto ply would be a heinous crime & you'd...

I don't think Ply needs priming (but read the adhesive instructions). If you do prime it use proper primer for the adhesive don't use PVA - especially in the bathroom.

You'll be okay. If it takes you a year to finish then you may have an issue.

I think the recommendation is 4 weeks. You may be okay with less if it's only a skim but it takes plaster a while to fully dry. Plasterboard is quicker to work with.

Make sure you push the rawlplug past the tile. If you don't you could find the tile cracking.

Rapid set on a wall in the summer may be a challenge. Even slow set will go off a fair bit quicker this time of year. If I were you'd swap it for slow set and even then get all the cuts done before you mix and don't hang around.

As Ree says, better to use Silicone for the inside corners. I think you'll find it's easier to get it looking neat (trim will depend on you getting everything perfect like an external corner) and it will remain waterproof if there is slight movement between the walls (grout can crack). Use...

Important to use adhesive on floors to fill any voids but you can just use screws to fix it to walls.

Depends how heavy the tiles are and how well the plaster is stuck to the walls. Old plaster tends to separate from the walls.

Self levelling compound might be easier but on the plus side I'd guess that Marmox has the merit if insulating the tiles.

[/url] These are actually very good despite being very cheap. Not sure how they'd do with hard porcelain or granite but they are more than up to Marble, Trav, Ceramic etc.

I'd say it's a f**k up and a redo at their expense. Sounds like they should have started the bottom row 10/20mm lower or levelled the floor. I'd be tempted to post on a tiling forum that pro tilers frequent - and post some pictures. I think you'll get some good feedback & advice that you...

If scrubbing with an emulsifying pad & a grout residue cleaner doesn't work I'd ask the tilers to come back - if they didn't clean the epoxy grout off the tiles properly then it might take some shifting and no reason why you should have the problem.

Was the grout fully cleaned off the tiles?

I'd be tempted to use a good quality exterior Ply and tile direct to it with a good quality cement based adhesive. Should be good enough for a worktop - my MDF has help up perfectly after all - if everything is well sealed with Epoxy grout then the backing shouldn't get wet. Epoxy grout can...

I tiled my kitchen worktop 10 years ago. It's manmade granite tiled onto 30mm MDF with a Oak edge trim. I know better now than to tile to MDF now but modern adhesives are very tolerant and it's still well stuck down. I did use black epoxy grout though. I can't think what the OP thought he...

You should probably be using tile adhesive (cement based) for the dot and dab and then mechanically fixing through the adhesive dabs.

Normally you'd use the kerdi board / Marmox etc instead of the ply rather than on top. Why is he using ply?