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Arctic in Blue, Yellow or Orange!

Reading the thread that EFLImpudence pointed to I notice BAS isn't actually saying what cable should be used.

Blowed if I can find a cable spec that says UV resistant / outdoor use. Is there such a cable spec that's usable for a security light?

That would sound about right. Maybe be there just in case a bit more needs to come off - floors may not be level / may use a thicker notch trowel.

Would 318TQ / 318TRS be okay? The only exposed parts of the run are house eves to the lights (couple of foot). Not sure whether 318TQ/TRS is meant for outdoors.

Can someone advise the correct cable to use for an external security light? Some of the cable will be exposed.

You need to be able to get at the brass bits for any servicing so they aren't tiled over. Mixers from Grohe & Dornbracht come with plastic shrouds that protect the fitting during installation, ensure that the installation depth is within the range, provide an edge to tile up to and with the...

SLC doesn't really self level. Mix it thick & use a plasterer's trowel.

Okay to tile on skimmed bonding but not straight to bonding.

If you can't drop the drain then you might have to use SLC to bring the level up.

You need to get the surface flat and use a small notch trowel - 3/4mm. Press the mosaics down with a grout float. Can be tricky if the mosaics aren't regular.

The longer you leave it the firmer it will get stuck as the adhesive cures.

World's full of builders who "always do it that way and never have a problem".

Use 4x25 or 4x20 - don't go longer than the material you're fixing to - you don't want the screws projecting under the floor. Remember to use cement based tile adhesive & a 6mm notch under the boards before you screw them down.

Bonding has very high suction. Can't work out what that yellow surface is - very unlikely to be the sandstone suggested by the OP. Difficult to know what will stick to it without knowing what it is.

Not sure about your sizes - Hardie screws for wood frames use: 5.0 x 32 mm P2 with a 10 mm diameter head. They're very hard and I find chew the drill bit up if you use an impact screwdriver. Screwfix TurboGold are a popular choice but Screw-Tite are very good & have an unthreaded upper that...

Ree - you know that you shouldn't tile onto bonding?

Is the yellow stuff solid enough to fix to? If it is then you might be best to overboard with moisture resistant plasterboard and tile onto that. If it's the foam in the middle of a plasterboard sandwich then not sure what you can do.

http://www.wilko.com/multi-purpose-cleaners/dettol-mould-and-mildew-750ml/invt/0275081 You'll probably need to redo the silicone first though - you've let it go a bit too far. Wipe it down after you've used the shower - soap residue will grow the mould.

Tiling onto cement render should be good.