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My FS120 had a broken wire & fell on the floor. It was part of the coil so i purchased a new coil & now trying to fit it. Now i had 2 wires coming out of the case which were connected to a kill switch to stop the engine. There 2 wires were both on the coil,lower Red wires in photo. With cover...

When the air filter is removed the air that enters the carb is more. So the mixture in theory is weaker. Should I set up the L screw nearest the engine to accommodate the engine to run with air filter left in place. Never had this issue before.

Yes to bulb. I do prime say 6 times. Will try more or less tomorrow. Thanks.

Ok tomorrow I will try that. So what do you decide why it’s hard to start & when it starts I surely should be able to start it without pull pull pull

Started a new thread as thought it would be easier. Strimmer a pain to start. After getting it started I can use it fine no problem. I switch it off & reload the line. Now I go to start it again bearing in mind it’s warm & I’ve been using it for say 15 minutes. Pull after pull after pull...

So in the photo you are saying bend it TO THE RIGHT correct ?

No this one

Well i did assume i bent it but it was done it situ. Isnt there a sure way to bring rpm up more so at least the speed of the thing moves along quicker. Does adjusting the self propel new cable help with this ? This grass isnt long & mower crawls along,any grass that is a bit higher i think it...

This is why i want the rpm to increase. I have the throttle set at HARE & have bent that rod as mentioned on the carb,did it in situ so assumed it moved ? It will take ages to cut lawns like this so what do you think ? SHORT VIDEO CLIP HERE Actually watching the video it looks faster that...

Cheers. I am now nearly finished but just these 2 things to do. Remove that strong spring on the stop / start arm as when mowing you see the lever creep & engins dies. Need to stil get revs up & couldnt easily bend that rod. Unable to alter cable as it locates in a slot in that clamp. Jobs...

Ok now sorted, Ive done much better on The Krypton Factor. Not only do you have to have the drive pegs in the correct orientation BUT also the metal gears that they lock into. These metal gears look the same either way round & one side has a plastic bush / seal fitted. After many tries i...

Ok so this is what ive done. Removed 1 wheel at a time. So left side i see a circlip, metal cog wheel, pulling that off i then see the peg item that has slanted sides passing through the shaft. I turned the peg around & put it back together & operated the handle but still no drive. I removed the...

From memory they are there as I noticed how much bigger than my owner mower gears. Reversed you mean swapped side to side

My new cable has arrived as previous owner had folded mower arms down when not used & cable crushed. I ordered the cable from GHS by the number on sticker on mower & it looks the same. On the cable is a plastic threaded adjuster. Cable now fitted & leaving adjuster alone I operate the self...

Ha ha if only……

Correct so I need something pulling it in all the time. Then resistance is met when the user wants to alter height in

I just can’t see what forward pressure keeps it in the deck holes. I mean if there was a spring there then the user would move the lever out ready to go into another hole & whilst doing this the spring would be wanting to keep pulling the lever towards the deck There is nothing like that at...

I will think and let you know

It looks like the adjustment lever is just bolted to the rear of one wheel. The metal is quite thin & has the nipple half way up which just pops into deck hole. Lever continues up a touch where is has a finger loop so the user can move it. You only have to sneeze & the nipple is out of the...

Grass box removed. There is a small square inspection cover. Remove this & gearbox is shown. I see a 3 inch spring on the left so this alters the tension of the belt The old mower had a threaded rod / nut setup. In last post is the lever which operates the stop / start. I have 1 lever on...