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"I note * have you tried press and hold for 3 seconds and what does it give you?" It gives access to a bunch of parameter settings, 7 in all, covering things such as 24hr/12hr clock, auto daylight savings time, 1/2/3 periods a day, etc. Unfortunately fully-pumped/gravity-fed is not one of them...

@ericmark , thanks for your detailed response. But I'm not sure how it helps me? I need a means of doing what you say: "The programmer activates just the boiler for DHW, and both boiler and pump for central heating and most had a slide and switch to select how they work." I don't see any means...

He'll come back, certainly. I'm fairly convinced at this point, though, that the issue is that it's currently working as if it's a fully-pumped system whereas it needs to be set to gravity-fed. Frustratingly, not only can I not find out how to do this, I'm not even sure it can be done. I've seen...

I posted an earlier thread about getting a replacement for an ancient Danfoss 3060 mechanical timer for the heating and hot water. I settled on a Danfoss FP720 in the end, and got an electrician to do the wiring as a new backplate had to be fitted. This was done Saturday. It's working fine for...

Turns out the Danfoss 3060 is not clipped onto a backplate and simply replaceable, but hardwired directly into a terminal block, so a new backplate will need to be fitted and wired in. Probably (?) outside my capabilities. Is this a job for an electrician or a heating engineer?

I believe it does, via a dip switch or config setting (depending on model). Not sure it can use the existing backplate, but I think so. I need the job to be easy or I'll deeply regret taking it on myself! :giggle:

Pretty sure we don't have motorised valves. Can't see anything in the cylinder cupboard which could fit that description. Basically, the boiler has two narrow bore (15mm?) parallel pipes coming out of the right side going up to the cylinder cupboard above, which I take to be gravity-flow and...

So pipes from the boiler should show this?

We have an ancient central heating system, installed, it seems, shortly after man's discovery of fire. Of late it hasn't been switching on and off at the requisite times, and it looks as if the Danfoss 3060 timer control is on the blink. My understanding is that I can probably just replace this...

If I do end up having to replace the pump, is there an inexpensive one I can just replace the Salamander with, without having to get the piping etc. changed? I'd rather not spend £400+ on a pump when the CT50+ is around £140, and was hoping there might be something a bit more reliable in that...

Filters were not blocked, so must be something else.

Thanks, I'll see what I can find out about that.

I fitted a Salamander CT50+ shower pump 4 years ago (replacing an existing one which had burned out). In the last couple of weeks, it's been taking a while to kick in, maybe 20-30 seconds of running the shower before the pump fires up. I'm wondering whether this is a sign the pump is on its way...

Thanks for that. I think I've probably literally cooked it now, though, as smoke was coming out of it just now! So I think it's probably too late to go down the the capacitor route and I've decided to pick up a replacement pump instead.

I fitted a Salamander CT50+Xtra pump for our shower just over 4 years ago and it has worked very well since. This morning, though, it is not pumping the water properly when I turn the shower on - it just makes a humming noise and the shower has lost all force. I have checked to see whether the...

Useful tip, thanks! The actual problem is not that it is dripping all the time but that the lever of the hot tip now goes slightly beyond the vertical position and when it does so, it drips. If it's in the vertical position (which is the furthest point the cold tap will go to, as it should be)...

Yes, did the job, thanks. Just required more force than I was initially applying.

You were quite right, I was able to unscrew the the lever and beneath it there was a grub screw, which I duly unscrewed. At this point I expected the cover/grip part of the tap to come away, but having removed the grub screw, nothing happened. Is it likely to be just seized with limescale, or is...

Thanks. But how do I actually get at it? I can't see where to undo.

My kitchen sink mixer (hot) tap is dripping, so I presume I need to replace a washer. I've not done this before on a mixer tap so I don't really know what I need to undo to get at the washer. This is what the tap looks like: https://www.dropbox.com/s/poqx6n8iaqta0du/taps.jpg?dl=0 Thanks!