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The assumption about the orange analogy is somewhat correct: A Residual Current Circuit Breaker is a Residual Current Device, by definition - it is possible to have a Residual Current Device that isn't a Circuit Breaker, but it's unlikely to find one in a domestic environment (I guess it'd be...

Surely for what they actually cost every decent alarm installer would have a punch down tool and a box of jellycrimps?

You can do pretty much whatever you want, after the switched fused spur (other than running really really long cables that is...)

The length of the cable will not be the reason for the delay (how much of a delay is induced in something travelling at 3x10^8 m/s over 13 metres....)

OK, here's a helpful response - you could try - here,here,here, here, here, or indeed here. Are they of any use?

They are stupidly easy to fit, about five screws, provided you remove the whole lot, replace the bit you're changing, then refit the whole lot it's a doddle - if you try and get at a single part whilst still inside the door it's a sod. I did one on a mondeo in about an hour including working out...

Any pre-2000 ford, got the wife a 1983 mk I fiesta though and that's a doddle to look after, and a laugh to drive.

Connect 'em up with some damp string chap, it'll probably be safer.... either that or scroll down and read one of the other dozen posts on the same subject in the last couple of days - or get a gas hob so that you can actually control the amount of heat you are applying to your pans, and use...

The CFL lamps are good in those circumstances, wouldn't have them in a living area though, they take forever to warm up! Bought a couple of downlighters a while back, but never bothered using them in the end, might do the cfl ones in my hallway when I do that though - depending on how much of a...

Might just stop the crap left underneath the floor by some other tradesmen from igniting, having had a few floors up in the past and seen the delights to be found under them.... hence good practice, not written down anywhere - my confusion with thinking it may be necessary was from talking to...

The spare terminal is only spare if the permanent and switched live are swapped though, otherwise if someone rewires it and puts the lives back the opposite way it'll create a short - not sure where I was going with the other thing, as the light will have a neutral to it anyway, seem to have...

Tim, I think he's got that covered. These things are a PITA to set up, I have no experience with this particular model so can offer no advice that you couldn't find yourself on google with the model number. It does sound a lot like you need to open up the relevant ports, maybe disable the...

Someone had done this in my outside loo, where there is an incoming live feed to the switch and the light run from there, but rather than a choc block, they did this: Common - switched live cable to light fitting (reason why becomes apparent) L1 - Permanent live supply L2 - both 2.5mm...

However it is good practice to fit fire rated anyway when there is another living space above.

By choosing to add an additional socket on the wall with the rad on, you are in effect creating another safe zone belonging to said socket, so would be allowed to run the cable all the way around within safe zones on each wall - to do this though due to regs on spurring you'd have to either...

You're looking in the wrong place for whether this is allowable or not - is the 6mm buried in the wall or clipped direct? If the cable is ok then 40 amps should be plenty.

As long as it's switched (requirement for isolation methinks), shouldn't be a problem if labelled correctly, as the fuse is there to protect the flex - unless it's that stupid 3 amp flex on the lights.... all notifiable though...

The gas one may not be electrically connected to the other pipes in all cases, but the incoming water one certainly will, as you say by the rather large unit attached to the wall! - unless the incoming water main goes metal - plastic - metal that is....

I actually cooked one good quality dimmer switch, then the replacement flickered from time to time (when dimming or when power cycled at the cu) anyway - turned out to be a dodgy neutral in the ceiling rose (not dangerous as such, nor badly wired, just cooked through age and use I guess)

Varilight probably sell something adequate, be prepared to chop a deeper back box in for it to fit in though.