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As s chippy, carpenter, joiner, etc... ...I'll just add that it seems very odd to me that the window boards are not extended by 30-35mm on each end and notched neatly around the window reveals. If they were then most of the **** looking stuff would be covered up because the eye would not be...

Socket to rhs of hob too close?

I'm not too far from you. I'm based in N21. So about £10 away ;) I'll pm you now. Can't work out how to PM you so will call you if that is ok? Steven

Hi Tony, thanks for the response. Sorry, I was not aware that I was asking an inappropriate question, as I had read many a similar question on here while trying to figure out if it was something I could get around myself over the weekend as the chances of getting an engineer over Easter...

As per the title, the boiler is a M96A-24SM/C. I went out for a run yesterday morning and came home for a shower and there was no hot water or heating. The boiler had locked out. I reset that and tried to run the hit tap but it locked out again and did so on all subsequent attempts. When...

the rise and going should be the same on both flights if only a half landing is present as far as i remember........and 220 is the rule as stated already. if it is a properly broken stairway- eg one over another you can have different rise and going but otherwise they must be equal. the half...

hard board is the traditional smoothing board used for carpet. its 3-4mm thick, is flexible enough to pull down tightly while fixing and thick enough to even out the normal lumps and bumps. if you've got any steps thicker than the hardboard itself then you may need to consider something thicker-...

dead skin has to collect somewhere ;-)

not an expert on this- I'm just a rough and slow chippy lol but real wood including ply can expand by 2-3mm per walking metre depending on conditions whereas hdf as used in laminate has a theoretical expansion of 1mm per walking metre. I just wonder how they manage to get the real wood to behave...

i was worried about the same thing so searched and found a range that has the foil wrapped onto the V and onto the abutting edges I'm still worried about moisture resistance though- but thats just me ;-D. I spent months deciding on what i used as its my home and I'll see it everyday. went for...

you coulld do it- if you know what you're doing or someone else does....and i do lol basically you can only do what you intend if you're happy to take off the click lip with a block plane and glue in the last piece of each row ;-) taking most of the lip off the board you're connecting to...

you couls reglaze the door in laminated glass or the less attractive georgian wired which would save some cash....

never knew it was called that- we referred to it a rebated panel mould when i last used it lol

the timber in the walls are called grounds and were built in by the brickies as fixing was difficult before the hammer drill came along. Best to drill and screw your new skirting though as the old grounds may not be where you need to fix- IE at a dip that needs pulling in. As fo gap- leave what...

just used light and space on new lining paper in a long narrow hallway. first impression were- oh no not gonna cover in 2 full coats (i had thinned some down to do a mist coat first). now after 1 full coat I've just got a few bits above doorways to roll again as i used a different (darker...

just used the leyland on my own doors and frames. it covers ok, is reasonable pricewise but it starts drying very quickly!!! I used some floetrol and some water too but even with that it was hard keeping a wet edge- even when rolling out flush doors and then brushing through. I did each face...

the only resprays i've ever seen- and its only 2 of them, both looked good. they just seemed to feel gritty to the touch and not as smooth as they should be. may have been down to lazy workmanship and not making sure the room was dust free before spraying..........but i wasn't there so don't...

basic overhaul shouldn't take much more than an hour once your chipenter gets set up and ready to go. so price will probably be based on time rather than per window. I'd probably want 40 for the first one and 20 each for the others though that could alter depending on an y repairs being needed...

with you on that- could put a 1 infront of that 30 if the frames are bad lol but £100 is what i'd want for those doors