Search results

Yesterday my wife went to use the washing machine (Hotpoint WMF760) and when she pressed the 'start' button the door locked but the machine wouldn't start. She thinks it flashed a code F20 (or similar) before returning to showing the cycle time. It had operated perfectly the day before...

Thanks again guys. New ballcock (part 2) solved the problem. I have another question though. I may be imagining it, but the tank appears to fill quicker although it looks like both the old and new ballcock have the same size valves (both white). Does anyone know off hand what the...

Thanks guys, That gives me the info I need. I'll definitely change have the ballcock I think, and ensure I get a ballcock with both high and low pressure valves so I can change them over if the one I fit isn't suitable. Thanks again.

The pipe feeding water to our house from the supply is 22mm. As it feeds 2 houses there is a branch outside the house where the 2mm pipe was reduced to 2 15mm pipes then to the meters. Some months ago I changed the branch and meter used 22mm pipe to feed into the house and this seemed to...

This was our original thought when I built the extension on the right. But the stone is quite tatty - it was rendered and stripped before, and the previous render has left marks all over it which don't show up clearly in the picture. We tried having the side sand blasted before I built the...

Certainly :wink: The single storey on the left is blockwork with the original render removed and the original door blocked up with a new window above, this will be rendered with the stone wall.

I have a stone wall (blue lias) which is looking decidedly tatty and needs rendering. I have had quotes which indicate differing opinions as to whether or not I need to apply a mesh over the stone before it is rendered. If anyone has experience of rendering over this stone and would care...

I think the answer may lie here. http://www.h2panel.co.uk/ It appears to be a combination of motorised valves and pipe thermostats which could be DIY'd. Or if the price is right, perhaps just buy one to suit the combination of heating units I have. They have no prices on their site...

I looked at thermal stores and on discussion with suppliers (such as Gledhill) came to the conclusion that the available water pressure at our cottage is too low to use one efficiently. However I managed to buy a large Air Source heat pump for little money last year. We have E10 electric...

Thanks. Now that frustration is over, next step is the laborious task of 'balancing' the system :( Then I have to consider the best way (if it can be done successfully) of adding an air source heat pump as a 'pre-heater' for the oil boiler :?:

It works!! This morning before doing any other alterations I started up the boiler again, and now heat is flowing through the whole system. I had done nothing to the pipework or pump, so go figure :!: A bit bizarre, but all I can think off is that it could have been a small airlock...

Yes - definitely teed into the return Done that - and have installed various 'bleed' points along the pipework to ensure flow all the way round when filling.

Not sure what you mean by that :oops: Can you elaborate? I simply put a 'T' in the existing flow and return pipes (just after the pump) and ran these through the loft to the extension where I then 'T'd each of the new rads off in turn. If I 'drain' the system at the end of the new flow...

I changed the pump for a 6m and still have a problem. The heated water flows in the original heating circuit OK, but the new circuit which is branched off the original circuit just after the pump remains cold. The hot water flows in the new circuit for about 2-3 metres then cools down as...

A bit awkward the way it was installed - although not impossible with a bit of re-plumbing - which I will do if the higher rated pump solves the main problem. :wink:

Thanks for all the responses. I just wanted to be clear if whether the orientation of the pump may be contributing to my flow problem before I changed it. Looks like this isn't the case, so I'll press on with the exchange and see what results. Thanks again

Thanks Seco. So it doesn't impede performance of the pump, it just causes it to wear out quicker - is that right?

I am replacing our central heating pump and have a question about the installation orientation. The new pump instructions say the pump should be mounted with the rotor shaft in the horizontal position - ie the pipe work should be vertical. Our existing pump (which worked for the last 8...

Sorry, my mistake - he did say 'SBR, which works like PVA' - but I couldn't remember what he said. Looks like the best solution is to strip it. Not nice :( , but it is only a small area :) Thanks guys.

I have an old single storey extension on the house which used to be the main access to the house. It is about 6 metres long. Planning have insisted I replace the door with a window as we now have a new front access as part of a new extension. The old extension has a 'rough' rendered and...