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ok thanks

those fillets you refer to are they not usually associated with flat roofs? We have a pitched one

Would it not be feasible to apply Acrypol to the parapet itself ?

we had that treated with something like Aquaseal 40 some years ago but i dont think lead was applied

I had and estimate from a builder/ roofing company to sort out a party wall ( which they call Firewall) because i am getting rather lot of damp near the roof area ,just below the parapet ( we live in terraced Victorian house) and yet everything i read about the product suggest it is for use on...

my neighbours have very little return if any, on theirs and given the shallow drop and relatively narrow width it probably isn't necessary to have more than a few inches

its the end which doesn't get the worst of the prevailing winds so probably ok

So the water runs to the other end?

The houses opposite are almost identical to mine.As you can see there is a short run of guttering at the base of a short slope in the roof although i must admit i cannot see that they have two shot lengths of guttering running from the elbows at each end

I assume it is to stop the rain water from falling at each end off the gutter down the wall. Instead it is directed onto the tiled slopes on each side of the roof. There is no down pipe

I have uploaded a photo of the side of the guttering which is still fixed (1st) and the one where the piece detached

looking at my neighbour's houses who live in similar chalet bungalows, none have the short lengths of guttering attached to an elbow joint that i have,probably because of the gales we are subjected to

a short length of guttering about half a metre long was attached, by a corner piece, to the main length running alongside one side of the roof .It was there to direct rainwater onto the sloping tiled roof, in fact i had one at both ends of the guttering and now there is only one after the strong...

No worries. I missed the post where you said tinted Zinsser Bin.I never knew you could do that

ok i am with you now, thanks

Oh I see so the top coat should ideally be oil based paint as well, maybe an eggshell?

i probably noticed but never thought it would be a problem, after all, I have hung liner paper in other rooms and had no problems with the paste. I will go down the BIN route as you suggest covering the whole wall, just will make sure the windows are wide open if there are any nasty fumes...

had a chat with a decorator today and he reckoned the problem was caused by me not wiping off excess wallpaper paste. The paint simply won't stick to it, so he suggested removing the nibs off with a kitchen scouring pad and then applying some oil based undercoat over the affected areas and then...

Ok thanks for that advice :)

in which case it would probably be better to let it harden fully over a period of 3 days .My only concern is whether painting anything over what appears to be a somewhat unstable surface will do any good. I have not seen anymore "scratches" appear but that doesn't mean they won't in the future