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  1. M

    Will adhesive stick painted gloss window boards?

    I've got some MDF window boards which I was told to seal before I fitted them, obviously to resist any possible moisture problems. To do this I've primered, undercoated and then gloss finished the underneath. All of these were oil-based so as to seal them effectively. My potential problem...
  2. M

    Sealing Thermalite bricks

    Hi there, I need to use some gripfill to secure some small LED lights into thermalite bricks. The gripfill recommends to seal porous surfaces first with a suitable sealer, to which I bought some PVA. I mixed 1 part PVA to 5 parts water and brushed the solution over the required areas on...
  3. M

    joining iron and plastics downpipes

    Hi, I need to join a plastic downpipe onto an existing iron one. I think I've seen connectors available somewhere, but how do you join them - i.e. with all plastic drain pipes you would use solvent cement, but joining plastic to iron I'm not so sure...? Can you get the coupling convertors...
  4. M

    Using gripfill on brickwork

    Thanks Noseall. Do you need to do any prep work to the bricks, apart from making sure you've removed any dust and alike? Thanks
  5. M

    Using gripfill on brickwork

    I've read about using the plasterboard underneath the window board elsewhere, is this purely so that you can level it of easily with the dabs of plaster underneath ready to accept the window board on top? So if I understand this correctly, lay a piece of plasterboard (the same size as the...
  6. M

    What's the best 'grab' adhesive?

    So Pink grip is a better version of the normal gripfill stuff? cheers
  7. M

    Using gripfill on brickwork

    I'm planning to gripfill my wooden window boards onto brickwork reveals. The bricks are completely bare - do I need to PVA them or something before I attempt to fix the window boards with gripfill or can I stick the gripfill directly onto the bare bricks? Thanks
  8. M

    What's the best 'grab' adhesive?

    I need to secure a few window boards in my conservatory and living room, and assumed that No Nails would be the best stuff to use - it costs enough! But after speaking to a guy at a joinery place, he reckoned the best stuff was 'Gripfill'. I know you can get this from screwfix and its about...
  9. M

    Flanges

    My idea about the manual vent came from this installation diagram: As for removing the warix flange altogether, what do I use to replace that fitting? Are saying I can get a connection that will allow me to use a small section of pipe to meet the original pipe that went into the vertical...
  10. M

    Flanges

    sorry, I meant the essex has a pipe that extends into the middle of the cylinder, which I'm worried will intefere with the immersion heater. I thought you had to put a vent at the highest point on the pipe that exits the HW tank so you could draw out any excess air that the flange couldn't...
  11. M

    Flanges

    The previous houseowner has incorrectly fitted a warix flange to my HW tank - i.e. the air free feed is going to the DHW side, and the air rich side goes to the shower pump. But what he's also done is to fit an AAV instead of a manual valve on the pump HW supply feed. I think this is the...
  12. M

    New TRV's leaking

    thanks Dave
  13. M

    New TRV's leaking

    Can anyone offer any advice... A couple of weeks ago I fiited a few new rads with normal handwheel valves. On the weekend I swapped them with Drayton TRV4's. I put a few turns of PTFE tape on both the tail and pipe ends threads then refitted them. But when I re-filled the system both...
  14. M

    C plan to S / Y plan - which can/should I use?

    I currently have a C plan installation. Zone valve is on the return from the cylinder, the pump is next to the boiler in the kitchen. I want to upgrade to a fully pumped system, BUT lots of my pipework is under a newly fitted bathroom and kitchen. My initial plan was to go for a Y plan. I...
  15. M

    inhibitor + gravity issue

    I've just renewed most of my central heating pipework, replacing an old microbore setup with 22mm and 15mm spurs accordingly. # All the old rads have been disconnected from the system, and so far I've only been able to connect 3 new rads to the new pipework - waiting for the next few...
  16. M

    My first soldered joints - how they look?

    thanks for the comments guys. With regards to being too hot, I had the blowlamp as low as I could get it without it blowing out. Although I was using it in the back garden which meant I couldn't see the tip of the flame very well (if at all!). Perhaps I was holding it too close? Should I...
  17. M

    dot 'n' dab

    If I take all the old plaster off exposing the brickwork underneath, do I need to prepare the wall with anything before I apply the dry-wall adhesive? (I'm thinking PVA or similar..?) Also, if I wanted to creating a 12.5mm cavity, would I be better off cutting a few strips of plaster baord...
  18. M

    My first soldered joints - how they look?

    So perhaps I need to use less heat/hold the torch further away for a longer period of time..? I did try a lower heat setting but it felt like I was there for ages and the solder still never melted until I focussed the heat, at which point the pipe started to slowly discolour. When you guys...
  19. M

    My first soldered joints - how they look?

    Had a few practice attempts with yorkshire joints as I've never done any plumbing before. Do these look ok? I couldn't seem to stop the pipe going a yellow colour before the solder was melting, but is this ok? They were all watertight, and as you can see from one of them it cleaned up...
  20. M

    Where do I stand?

    We're just about to have a replacement conservatory built on the back of our semi detached house. The neighbour has already got a single storey extension, to which our existing conservatory butts up against. The angle of the boundary line means that the slight increase in length could...
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