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There can be more than 1 cause of damp, and that photo does look like water has been running down the wall, which if you have a solid wall is likely to cause damp, defective pointing or not

As I understand it, you are under no obligations to build to plans if the development is also permitted development. I would check you have PD rights, as some properties don't

Most standard cement based tile adhesive is C2. The mapei one that wickes stock is usually competitively priced Most will say on the website whether they are C2 or other

How about a photo so we can offer some more detailed advice?

If its raining, where is the water that falls on the sheet going to go? If you can add a photo, I'll be able to help more, as your OP is not that clear!

Your best bet is to improve the drainage of the soil. Stopping rain falling is always tricky. Have you got a photo?

Where is the water coming from? Is it just rain, or do you have downpipes or run off from other areas

I've seen it blow an old lathe and plaster wall over a bay window where someone, against my advice, tried to insulate the gap with spray foam.

Breeze blocks maybe cheaper, but it's a lot more work! You'll need a foundation, probably 200mm of lean mix, then you will need to consider moisture ingress, as if the blocks get damp the render will blow when they freeze, then the white render will constantly grow green algae on it. White...

Make sure you leave the bottom free of paint, otherwise you create a trap for any water that soaks into the wood, as well as running the paint 150mm above the soil line, as that's the bit that rots

I reckon it's a waste of time, and that you would be better off lowering the ground level, as the damp is most likely caused by rain splashing up into the bricks above the damp course, or your cavity needs clearing out

As long as the primer is dry, I don't think it matters. It may take longer than you think, so I'd do it the night before

I'd say your floor is going to be pretty absorbant, so I'd mix 3-1. I imagine it needs to be dry so it actually soaks in, and doesn't sit on the surface

I'd say b is best, or c) stick 50mm celotex to wall using foam and a few fixings, tape the joints and plasterboard over

I'd use an acrylic primer rather than SBR. If you check out the flooring sub forum there is a sticky that talks about levelling a floor. You may struggle to get the brands mentioned, but you can normally find versions at screwfix etc

Why do you think they are a con? A good one isn't cheap, but you can get a hepa H13 one for £100 or so, but a decent one is £2-300 We got a blueair one that is excellent

I would hire a ducted fan for the area they are working in, then maybe get a domestic air purifier for "dust free" area My wife is very sensitive to dust, so I put my air purifier just inside the door of the bedroom, so if any dust gets through, it gets sucked up straight away. This seems to...

Water will often travel after it gets through whatever is retaining it, so stains on ceilings and walls are not necessarily caused by leaks directly above where the stains are Edit- so those stains were probably caused by the rotten felt and huge holes you posted about a few days ago

Why do you think you need an air gap?

I think you are right. Target u value is now 0.16 for renovation. OP, I would be looking to add either another 75mm over the rafters but 100mm would be best.