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It was OK for me, but that was 3-4 of years ago...

I'd add another 50mm over the rafters, then plaster board, as just 75mm between isn't compliant with building regs

I've heard of quite a few people falling foul of weight limits, so I'd go for the lightest possible material. The requirement for structural grade depends on what you are going to use the ply for- if you will be hanging things off it, you'll need thicker, if it's just for cladding, then I'd go...

I just did the same, but I left a 5mm gap between the ply boards, and filled them with 2 part wood filler and sanded back. No complaints so far!

I wonder what's on the other side of the wall? Seriously, I think Ivor has it right. Looks like salt crystals.

No, but it takes skim really well. Glued the joints with no more nails, then scrim tape over, and the plasterer gave it a once over

I've just used marmox board everywhere and it worked really well. Easy to cut and screw onto studs

Well it says it catches coals and ashes. Im guessing there will be some heat in them. Some galv doesn't need to reach that high a temp to start releasing fumes

I'd avoid galvanized steel- zinc fumes can be released if it gets too hot

The dust is more likely to be plasterboard dust. Artex may contain very small amounts of asbestos. If you knew this was happening, could you not have put dust sheets down? I'd give it a good vacuun with the windows open if it's carpet. If its hard floor, carefully brush it up, then give it a...

There are 2 options, lift the loose and refit, and in about 5 years you will have probably relaid every slab, or get him back to sort

I missed the pointing method originally. This is a half arsed way to do it. It should be mortar all the way down. It was always going to crack, as the unbound sand would shift, leave.a gap under the thin mortar, and hey presto, cracked mortar. Sounds like a lot of corners were cut

Bad job all round. You may have got away with a full bed without a sub-base, but no way that dot n dab on soil would ever last

Verge trim at the top, siliconed to the wall should stop water getting in from the top. Stopping short of the ground above dpc should stop water from the bottom Blocks shouldn't need sealing

Just to let anyone know who is following the saga, found the crossed pipe, it was a simple error, and took 20min to fix. Still no insight into why I had brown water when I turned the hot water back on, but the pipe crossing may have cleaned the heat exchanger :LOL:

If there is a boundary there, such as a fence or flower bed, the neighbour could well claim adverse possession. Just because your deeds show you "own" it, it's not that simple. Property law is a complex area, so I would tread carefully and get some expert advice before you do anything...

I'd recommend visiting the garden law forum, as there are some very knowledgeable people on the specifics of boundary law. If I was in you situation, unless the lack of lawn was causing significant inconvenience or distress, I would leave it well alone. As Hugh says, only solicitors win in this...

We did a lot of rerouting of pipes, and even with the only new tap isolated, we have the same issue. Does the above make sense regarding flows from taps, or is it not that simple? I think the crossover is after the last taps on the hot/cold feeds, so I think that means we will see what we see-...

I used 40mm marmox boards to get at least some insulation, whilst still being able to fit the bath in Edit- I also ran a bead of ct1 along each edge of the board (think like mortarting bricks together) to make sure the joints are waterproof

One question to help me narrow down where the cross feed is occurring. If all of my hot taps have a lower flow compared with the cold taps (as they have to go through the heat exchanger), does that suggest that the crossover is after the last tap in the system? Surely if it was before a tap...