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if you have a...lets say 9inch solid wall[no cavity] and your studding it out and insulating between the treated timber.. studs/base plate/header plate then you will want a vapour barrier so your isulation[rockwool]..ect doesnt get damp ect ..cold bridging... so where do...you... think it...

your welcome.

lots off tiles will say....150mmx1500mm 250mmx200mm 600mmx300mm ..ect..ect but if you measure them they will be 2mm or 3mm shy.... if so you will use either a 2mm or 3mm spacer peg to get to...

he did ask for good quality ones,in his last post... :roll: what you pay for...is what ya get.... :wink:

ok the matrix carboard your talking about is a load bearing wall...you wont have any stud timber?... dont dismantle this or damage it... look to glueing and screwing new cement based backerboard to what you have after removing the old tiles..take it..it will be at least two p/boards so...

bump.

centre your window and take tiles into corners and if small slithers the yes use centre tile... you will look to getting a full tile wrap round in corners[or close as].. then seeing how it works in other 2 corners...just mess about with the tiles to see whats best for the corners and best on...

http://www.decorativeproducts.co.uk/selkie-stone-waterproof-wall-panels.html

ok how thick is the floor 40mm or 75mm. you will need to give a min of either 40 days or 75 days for it to dry out.. are you saying you have a wet underfloor heating system in the slab? or are you going for elecrtic electric heating over the slab? ps if its a gypsum concrete ie the...

give the tiles a tap with your knuckles and listen for a hollow sound,if you do hear.. then rip down and start again... ps imo just rip down and redo,whats the wall construction?.

first question... whats the joists spacing/spans and width/depth are they?

your external walls are they solid or cavity... solid yes use a vapour barrier cavity no need to but you can if you want.. yes insulate.. pipes if your using copper then sleeve and insulate if pushfit/speedfit ect no need for pipe sleeves.. insulate.. come back on when floors are...

ceramic or clay based tiles...my eyes are tired... :D just give them a good clean/prime with sbr follow inst on bottle for mfr mix ratio..tile away

is your house a mid terrace.... if so the 3 layer are for fire protection..how thick is it..9.5mm or 12.5mm

with tpt your hall will have heavy traffic coming and going so look into using min 25mm wbp ply ect your wbp/marine ply will need primed underside and edges before fixing down for primer ect some adhesive mfr will say yes...some say no.. so depends on what one you use ect.. i...

its very easy to remove dot/dabbed p/board...!!! and even easier to put back onto the wall..dot/dab or stud the wall out... what your wanting to do...no.. :shock: just do it right first time and you will have peice off mind...

dont like the stuff at all...seen to many failures with the cheap crap you get from the sheds...

i would send you around the tile retails i use or take you round get you to buy a few sample tiles you like[usually a couple of pounds,then you take them back and get full refund].. take the tiles home and you would put the light on in the room and then lay your tiles on floor and against the...

not all walls run true so starting with a full tile from the bath is not good practise,you might find the tiles run high or low,so when you get round to the window you could have problems... fit your bath first get level and use some 2x2 treated to help support it to wall... then you will...

as above....then score the area with a stanley blade to give it a key,then use your acrylic primer...then tile away.