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Yup.

...and then cover the joint between lining & plaster with architrave. If you've had a tidy plasterer he will have washed the residue off the edges of the lining so you can get a decent paint finish there. If not, scrape & sandpaper it off when dry.

Thanks for your response. 4 are checked. "allow background saves" "embed linguistic data" "save autorecover info..." "embed smart tags". Which of these should be unchecked?

Hi all... a problem with MS WORD 2000. In the last week it's started saving a TEMP file (.tmp) of most files I open, when I open them. It saves them into the same folder as the proper file. When the .tmp file is opened, it's just gobbledegook... what's happening here? I have XP+SP2, P4 2.8GHz...

Hi, I need to know if there are any problems using a TV (Blaupunkt) in the UK that was purchased and used in Switzerland. I know the voltage is the same, but any other problems? Many thanks, GW

Apologies - the lack of a question mark should have told me...

Yes, that's putting it a bit more bluntly. Never try a normal Forstner in a router. Stick with the drill press.

A joiner 'joins' (makes) things, a carpenter fixes the finished item. I know carpenters make joints in roofs etc, but that's the original meaning. You wouldn't normally get joiners working on building sites, nor carpenters in 'joinery shops'. A clamp doesn't involve screw threads to fix...

That's life in the wardrobe business...

Because the centre point is very short, and larger diameters can be dangerous in a hand-held drill... if not held absolutely upright, the cutting edge will bite before the point, and the thing will run away to the side and into your groin. Beware!!

Thermo - sorry... they haven't been used since the 50s. Doubt anyone could find one nowadays. Why don't you use glue instead?

Oh, and NEVER go to IKEA on a Bank Holiday. Try www.woodfit.com for fittings, and I would suggest melamine (plastic) faced chipboard or MDF for all panels/shelves etc, (or real wood-veneered if you prefer) rather than ply... it's flatter, easier to finish (MDF, if painted) and you can match...

Try here for a start > www.kitchenandbedroomstudio.co.uk/bedcarcass.asp Bit pricey, but will give you some ideas.

No - I wouldn't want that (you see? I've also bought a dictionary) ...this should have followed SS's post. Thanks plugwash, and securespark. BTW, why doesn't he like sheds?

Maybe, but the man's right... however, if I can't find the answers, I'll be back!

Points taken - thanks very much, I'll do as you say.

Thanks for the reply... there's about 20mm above the fittings, but I'll check with the manufacturers. Yes, they're F-marked. Regarding switching, I want 2-way from each side of the bed. Why does the switching method change things? Is it the length of cabling? -thanks again

A couple of queries regarding LV downlighters. I plan to fit 5x20w units in a boxed shelf above a bed, between wardrobes. Shelf material is chipboard, gap between shelves (void) is just 65mm. 1 Will these things run too hot? Would vents at each end (into the wardrobe) help? 2 Can they be fed...

Breezer - you da man!! Excellent section for the 'electrically-challenged', like myself. Many thanks (also to other contributors to "For reference"). I could probably think of a few more things to be clarified, then I wouldn't have to spend all that money on reference books...

I have a timer fan with terminals N, L, & S/L, and also with an integral pull switch. I'm told I should simply loop-in to the SL terminal from the L terminal - is this correct? The instructions show nothing coming into the terminals. It's fed from a ring main spur & fused at 3amps, so I have...