LV Downlighters

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A couple of queries regarding LV downlighters. I plan to fit 5x20w units in a boxed shelf above a bed, between wardrobes. Shelf material is chipboard, gap between shelves (void) is just 65mm.
1 Will these things run too hot? Would vents at each end (into the wardrobe) help?
2 Can they be fed from a ring main socket? Would they need a seperate fused connector, or would a smaller fuse in the plug be ok?
3 Would it be better to take a feed from the lighting circuit in the loft, and if so, why?
4 Am I right in thinking that this is non-notifiable re Part P?

Thanks in advance...
 
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20W should be OK, but check the mfrs instructions. Are they F marked? Ie suitable for mounting in or on a combustible surface?

Are you saying the recess depth is 65mm? Is this enough to allow the fitting to recess and give headspace for air to circulate? Again, check with the mfr if the instructions are unclear.

How do you intend to switch these lights on & off?
The answer may determine how you wire them to the supply.

The job is non-notifiable, as long as they are pre-assembled CE-marked lighting sets.
 
Thanks for the reply... there's about 20mm above the fittings, but I'll check with the manufacturers. Yes, they're F-marked.
Regarding switching, I want 2-way from each side of the bed. Why does the switching method change things? Is it the length of cabling?
-thanks again
 
gord55 said:
Regarding switching, I want 2-way from each side of the bed. Why does the switching method change things?
The fact that you have no idea that 2-way switching means that you can't plug them into a socket circuit just confirms that you really don't know enough to be doing this.

It's not beyond your grasp, just beyond it right now - please go away and spend some time learning. Use the For Reference section and other websites. Buy the Which? book and others. The danger is that you may be missing some important knowledge, not realise that you don't know something and therefore not think to ask.
 
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ban-all-sheds said:
The fact that you have no idea that 2-way switching means that you can't plug them into a socket circuit just confirms that you really don't know enough to be doing this.

It's not beyond your grasp, just beyond it right now - please go away and spend some time learning. Use the For Reference section and other websites. Buy the Which? book and others. The danger is that you may be missing some important knowledge, not realise that you don't know something and therefore not think to ask.

Sucinct and diplomatic as ever B-A-S! :D
 
Well, you could wire it as required via a fused spur, but not really via a plug top. If you did, it would resemble a porcine's pinna...
 
ban-all-sheds said:
gord55 said:
Regarding switching, I want 2-way from each side of the bed. Why does the switching method change things?
The fact that you have no idea that 2-way switching means that you can't plug them into a socket circuit just confirms that you really don't know enough to be doing this.

It's not beyond your grasp, just beyond it right now - please go away and spend some time learning. Use the For Reference section and other websites. Buy the Which? book and others. The danger is that you may be missing some important knowledge, not realise that you don't know something and therefore not think to ask.

well the two switches pretty much need to be hardwired to each other yes (unless you use special connectors)

but there is nothing stopping thier being a plug and socket either before or after the switching arrangement.
 
No - I wouldn't want that (you see? I've also bought a dictionary)
...this should have followed SS's post.
Thanks plugwash, and securespark. BTW, why doesn't he like sheds?
 

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