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The early PCBs weren't able to display all possible faults so it logged "generic fault" if it didn't know what it was. If you installed a new PCB if may not fix it but it'd display the real fault and give you more information. Although, it is possible that it's just the PCB itself. I recently...

How old is it? It's probably a PCB fault but could potentially be many other things.

+1 I'd like to know! Unless I detect a hint of sarcasm 8)

Yep, it's possible. This is a timer and stat... http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-digistat-2rf-room-thermostat/79501?kpid=79501?cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CPf776OR0rQCFePHtAod3TsAbA Or just a stat...

32mm? Really? Either way just leave it in. Better flow rate, it'll heat up quicker I suppose! I always leave them in, just make sure they're cleaned out well.

You don't connect it to the boiler, you connect it to the wiring centre or programmer. This has cropped up in a recent thread. This isn't easy if you don't have a basic grasp of electrics or central heating wiring. It's a very easy job for an electrician or plumbing/heating engineer, it...

£250 for a full day sounds OK. Depends on how long he thinks it'll take to do, and what materials he intended to use. What boiler/system do you have? What size pipework do you have to the radiator you want to take from? I'd do it one of two ways. Either soldered copper or barriered...

Thanks. I knew I could click it once but not a second time! Still, no need for all those neutrals and earths.

I've ignored the diagram the Op posted, can you even make out the wires?? Better eyes than me! ;)

BG/SG use contractors for a small portion or their work, not all of it.

No. SL on is the feed to the white wire in the Mid-Pos valve. This is the wire that's currently connected to CH-ON in your programmer. If you mount it next to the programmer it's a simple job. Permanent LNE are straight forward. Now remove the wire from CH-ON in your programmer and...

The advice in my first post is based on it being a room stat only, and not a programmable stat. So forget the reference to "common" 230v and volt free is just the switch. It'll still need 230v to work so you can disregard the reference to "volt free" because you have 230v.

That diagram is too crowded and small I'm afraid. Next time omit the N and E wires for clarity. So you don't have a room stat at all at the minute? Mount the wireless receiver next to the programmer if you can. Take the L-N-E from it into the receiver. The CH-ON terminal of the...

Sounds like even if you do fix the pilot light issue you'd still need to sort out the problem that made the fuse blow. Is it worth the hassle and money when you could potentially be no further forward?

It's true to say that Powerflushing is over used and quite the money spinner but with the right equipment and chemicals the system and heat exchangers can all be done together.

I have an Ultracom CXi with weather compensation (similar software to yours) I find it better to have longer heating periods at a lower heat curve/KWs with 3 degrees lower set-back periods. Thing is, every house is different. Depends on how well insulated it is. Best case scenario would...

http://vaillantcyclingproblem.blogspot.co.uk/ If you rename this post, or make a new one, call it something like "Vaillant 400 series, weather compensation, cycling" more people will will read it as it's been the subject of great discussion on here! Also try searching the forum.

Both methods are possible as a Powerflush can be done in different ways. Some guys only clean the system and leave the boiler, other guys will clean the heat exchangers too by using a pump-head adaptor and aggressive chemicals with their machine. Neither guys are wrong, it's just...

0.75mm heat resistant flex into the boiler