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presumably if they don't have to be earthed due to being double insualted, then you just make sure that the lighting circuit itself is covered. Then you just have to watch that the lights are ok to be positioned in the bathroom re the zones?

The lighting circuit coming into the bathroom has to be bonded to any other electrical circuit in the bathroom. So it's not just a case of ignoring it if the fitting happens to be double insulated. You obviously don't bond to a fitting which is double insulated, but someone might change the...

Always make sure the supply fuse has been removed before you mess with the tails. Always check polarity too. It's not unheard of for the incoming supply to have been switched round somewhere. That being the case, the "dead" supply could still be live.

I heard a theory that it was bad practice because there is no where to obviously terminate the neutral, hence the double pole switch request I expect. Can't see anything wrong with it myself.

Think they will have a rod with them, or some kind of ferret. Wouldn't be cutting it into lots of short lengths though. If you do, maybe leave access holes until the cable is in?

you would think so, but thought I would ask.

If they are dry lining then you can normally get away with just fixing the box straight to the surface of the wall. By the time the board is put over the capping it will stand proud of a standard socket box anyway. You would need to sink cooker boxes though because they are obviously deeper...

Check the neutrals in your cu. Split units have two neutral bars. Got the right one? Sorry if that's a stupid question. :D Other than that you need to test the new circuit for faults.

Yes. When you are re wiring then you would have to cut the brick out with the capping/cable in situ, so that would involve a combination of skill/patience/decent existing plaster and a sharp chisel with a big hammer. Can't think of any reason why you would want to do it if you have the...

Have a search for a modulator. I thinks that's the piece of kit that does that. Digi signal in via a scart and RF out to your "loop box" or tv amp.

I'd fit them after plastering because those spring clips don't work very well after you have smacked them to get rid of the massive amounts of spare plaster that your man leaves in the box. Best leave them till after. They can be cut in neat enough then anyway. Not sure I would want to fit...

Don't suppose there are two pairs are there? One pair of reds and one red and black? Having all the reds together will be your problem I expect. One of the reds will be the return from the switch. I would imagine that you should have two reds together in the centre terminal. ( or connected...

Is the light on the switch going out? Loose connection on the switch maybe. Could be anywhere though so maybe better to have someone out who can check what is going on?

as I said, not sure how relevant it is, but in the absence of any other reply, might give you an idea.

JIB have a rates section. Not sure how relevant it is, being self employed, but might give you an idea. http://www.jib.org.uk/jib511.htm

switch live to L on your fitting. Or the brown wire. You need to connect all the reds together but keep them separate from anything else. Another connecter block will be required if your new fitting hasn't got a spare.

Sink it to the same depth as the capping is on the wall. So that would be about half the depth of the metal box'ish. Or, check with the Plasterer first. Lot of dry lining going on nowadays. Saves a bit of knocking.

Do you have a manual for it ? There is normally a faultfinding chart in them at the back. It'll probably say "call engineer" but worth a look if you have it!

Maybe get away with two. One feeding the extractor fan. The hob and oven could then be connected from another one via a twin socket fitted below worktop height and have plug tops on, with fuses rated to their own load. 3a and 13a I expect. Although you may as well leave them for what you are...

If when you finish, there is no indication that the cables are there (ie a socket or switch on the same wall) It would be a good idea to put some kind of protection over them less someone comes along later and starts drilling holes. Better still to move them all together so they are running...