Search results

Its implied that the OP is taking care of the T&G boards. The floor in the pics is in excellent condition its "solid and flat apart from a few areas". Tiling on to T&G using flexi adhesive has been a standby method in plenty of jobs that I've done or been aware of. "absolutely" no call backs...

It might be best to cut near the ceiling, & re-route the pipes to drop down on a clipped pipe board tight to the inside corner. Sweating the Cu is best practice but compression or push fit is fine. Use screw cups for the boxing in, & insulate the pipework.

OP, Read back and research your issues on previous threads on here and the building forum. Then come back with the relevant & variable info. eg. is the house rendered? what floor ? solid floor? solid walls? rads or appliances in the room? "damp" without further information means nothing -...

The boards look to be mostly in good shape. You could even use flexi-adhesive and flexi-grout, & tile straight over the T&G. But maybe thats a little too far for a DIY'er? Lifting, tiling under, & re-setting the WC is all done in the working day but its your house and you can tile around it...

Some useful advice above but if it is indeed Anaglypta paper then the paper must come off or be boarded over. Skimming over will only give future problems. Given that you can see the pattern it sounds like paper not un-patterned Artex. Remove a little of the skim from an obscure place, and you...

OP, If you are still there? From the details above it seems that your best bet would be to hack off back to bare brick, and then render a rubbed-up backing coat of 3:1 sand & lime mix. Tile straight onto the render.

OP, Pva is not a water proofer. It should never be used on wet walls or with render. IMO, a 3:1 sand & lime mix makes the best of the traditional renders. The lime powder bags are typically stamped with a large NH.

Are the (Cu?) plumbing pipes redundant? Why have they been stopped high up the wall? Are there any other supplies available in or near the compartment? There's no need to "make any push fit joints accessible" - millions of such, & similar, fittings have been successfully installed over the last...

Render will do nothing for your wall or your issues. Neither, as you have probably discovered, will paint - masonry paint or not. You would best just live with it - certainly the cheapest option.

OP, If this is indeed a concern, then why not post pics showing a side view - & if possible a view from above showing the bay roof? Did you notice any irregularities or cracks inside the bay/house? Did you glance at any similar constructions on neighbour's bays?

OP, Dont assume anything where utilities are concerned - we've previously encountered elec. services at 6" depth, and gas and water likewise. The safest bet is to be very aware and pull a string line to give a surface idea of where a utilitiy might run below ground from where it enters the...

OP, Running plasterboard up to cement board is common practice. You dont use PVA in wet wall situations. Backer board requires no treatment beyond taping the joins. Dont worry about the skim going under the edge/trim tile. Tile to about half a tile beyond the shower tray and run the last leg of...

However you go with pulling out the finished surface, consider: Knuckle bumping behind any taps on the bath head rim. Window or soap niche openings. Elec shower units. Any projecting fittings such as valves, spouts or shower heads. Enclosures.

OP, You need a dead accurate measurement from the old floorboards to the FFL of the hall - guessing is useless. The building trade works to measurements. Typically, 18mm is not needed as an underlayment. 12mm is adequate for most possibilities. 6mm luan ply or cement board is also often used -...

OP, You would do well to post a pic of the tiles in question? With respect, you dont need "a special tool to rake out the grout" - a utility knife will do. Dont do any drilling - its not necessary, & you might make things far worse. A thin spatula scraper will safely lever out any tile or...

Your tiles seem to be Edwardian - some neighbour's in the street will probably have the same on their entry paths. Check with them for accounts of any repairs that they might have made. Usually, the reason the grout begins to degrade is due to movement in or on the backing base. Is there side...

OP, You've positioned a potentially dangerous object on your roof. No way should that arrangement be left in place - why, because you have no way of knowing how exposure might weaken the ties, & what a sudden gust of wind might do to lift it up, and fly it to ground level (incidentally bringing...

Yes, remove the old newspaper from the vent opening and vacuum it out. Then fix (drill, plug & screw) an appropriately sized eg 10" x 6" Hit & Miss Vent, aka Adjustable Vents, over the opening. What you are calling vents on the exterior brickwork are actually pure rip-off nonsense called "The...

footprint, I think you are right, & I was wrong in identifying the scorch marks as possible burns from the fire.

This bernardgreen guy takes the cake for such laughable, confused, and self-contradictory posts. He goes on at detailed length about "thanks" - mentions the word a number of times, & then claims to have no interest in what he's been obsessively whining about. Oh, I see, you were only waving...