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Isn't the breaking capacity of a 3036 1.5kA?? and a 60 1361 33kA?? so if the fault current was >1.5kA then the 3036 might not have operated... just looked up breaking capacity and it says that a fuse might not operate if it's breaking capacity is exceeded!

I've seen it in a customers house, they also had architrave trunking! It'd been in for a few years, I'm sure it look ok when it was installed but it'd all discoloured at different times so it now looks absolutley pants! I think it was either Mita or Ega trunking and they only had it...

Impossible to tell on a forum.. If you get at least 2 more quotes it should give you a good idea

Wasn't thinking of that Lucia :roll:

No,, TBH it sounds like your plumbing is a right mess... still get a couple more prices though!!

Sounds a lot less of a dodgy plumber now...

If there's a good bit of lighting then I'd get a rep in to spec it for you... They can do cost saving analysis / costs / annual running cost estimations etc.. that you can give customer

TBH that sounds a bit dodgy...maybe your father in law mis understood what he was saying! However do not rely on this one quote alone and try and be in yourself when they come... why not give this plumber a call to see what he thought..

Couldn't you get away with 6 core??? Common Perm live Common Neutral Common Earth Switched live to valve 1 Switched live to valve 2 Common switched out (demand) - these are commoned in the wiring centre anyway!

If you cannot get the cylinder to drain down using the drain cock then DO NOT try and remove the element.. By just draining down using the taps the cylinder is still full of water. You are going to need a plumber I'm afraid. A plumber may or may not remove the element, it depends on how...

No prob,, Personally I do replace elements, but sometimes you do have to say to people to get a plumber in, it's not worth the risk of damage and in the end they should have all the right tools and experience to do the job without damage... or to be able to tell if it's there is a big risk...

A new tank is going to cost you maybe £450 so you may be better off getting a plumber in to have a look first. Before getting them to try and remove the element make sure you have enough money for a new tank, because once they start they will not be able to stop and if the tank tears then...

If you have a ohm meter you can do basic checks on the stat and element. First off your cylinder looks like you could do with a plumber, the bit that is leaking is a fitting boss, so it could easily be sorted. Now to the testing... with the power off and ohm meter in hand, disconnect the...

Sorry Matt, but I can't see any photos in the album

Get a photo up and one of us will show you (yours might not have one though)

If you click on the "Upload photo" link just above the posts box, add an album and then upload a picture.. you'll then have to add a link to the photo in your mesage

Can you take a photo of the immersion with the cap removed and post it?? it'd make things much easier Make sure that the circuit is turned off before ou remove the cap though!

I could really quite easily be the either the main stat or over temp stat that has gone faulty or activated.. They are easy to test, you just need the right equipment

I'd guess that you have a dual element Immersion cylinder, the lower one is your E7 element and the upper one your boost element. The most likely part that has failed is likely to be the element, however it could be the thermostat. Youre best bet would be to get an electrician in to test...