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Are you doing warranty replacement on stuff which is 16 months old??

I've done a domestic job where I found aluminium T&E.:shock:. It took a good few cuts at the ends and scraping of the conductors before I believed it myself! :roll: normally it's all tinned copper (which is ok so long as it tests out ok) So I replaced all the Aluminium......(that I found)

If a cable / termination has burnt out then you will need to replace the switch and cut back the cable untill you find a bit that hasn't been damaged

First off, if you are unsure about what you are doing then leave well alone and get a pro in to have a look... SAFETY is very important, we don't want you getting an electric shock or being electrocuted now do we!! Now to answer your questions.. Yes CU is consumer unit Isolator switch...

It sounds like it could be an older Square d CU... Theie RCD's (once tripped) need to be pushed down before they will allow you to reset them.... But, you should really get it tested before you buy, or factor in for a rewire and then get it tested before you move in.. Electricity can...

The only other thing you could do is isolate (turn off) the circuit at the CU and have a look behind your shower isolator switch for signs of burning... Otherwise you need to get a electrician out to actually test the circuit! Unless you have the necessary test equipment??

In fact your r2 reading should be 1.66 x r1 or rn for 2.5/1.5 T&E or 2.5 x r1 or rn for the older 2.5/1.0 T&E However as you say this should have been picked up and rectified during the CU replacement[/b]

No I haven't... But then again the lead insulation is split where it meets the body so it's really time for a replacement.

I was told to improvise by my NIC assessor (for my T100)... so I recon some 10mm insulation should sort it?? OR maybe a small bit of heatshrink??

From what I understand is that you DNO require the board to be a certain size for their equipment.... cut out & meter and possibly a check meter if ones ever needed in the future[/b]

Not my house.... it was a B&B and this was for their private quarters.. and the cable did have a bit of a rambling route, the worst part about it all was that it had to go past the bathroom and then back in to get to where I wanted it!!!

If you are having wall cabinets... how about putting some flourescent fittings on top of them and bouncing the light off the ceiling.. and then some under cabinet strip lights to light the worktop

Ooops that'll be 6mm then!!! Definately not 10.5kW 9.5kW is close to it's limits 8.5kW would be better

A 500w heater isn't going to do much!! You'd be better off plugging you CH boiler into the genny

If you have an insulation tester and know how to use it then yes you could,,, But so long as it's insured, then leave it switched off until they send someone to sort it!

Personally if after testing the cables are OK, then I'd replace any switch, socket or fitting that had been in contact with the water,,,, But surely this should be an insurance claim! Most insurance companies will pay for the damage caused by a leak, but not to fix the leak itself

I did a sub main for a bathroom... had to route the cable around the outside of the house and it ended up being 35m long It had a 9.5kW shower, 2kW downflow, Selv extractor fan & 38w 2d fittng; so with taking everything into account I had to use a 800 KMF with a 50A fuse and 25mm 3 core...

Thats more like it,,, but what ducting did they fit??? For that kind of run you'd be better off with smooth bore duct, something like 4" soil pipe!! and only use flexi at the ends

Lets forget about the light fittings for now... and say that you have a supply L & N and a switch now if you take a L from the supply to the switch, the switch will switch that,,, so you connect your blue (sleeved brown) to it. At the other end you will now have a L, N & switched live...

That's an Axial fan..... It won't be suitable for extracting over 7m. You need a Centrifugal one, probably 6" for that distance!