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whats your pressure on

It could be the pump as it seems to be overheating due to lack of circulation, it may be sludged up and need a powerflush but if it seems to reset after a certain time then the boiler could be to hot and needs the time to cool down and then start up again.

I have noticed something i dont like at all on this site. It,s some peoples attitude towards the questions there answering, if someone comes on and asks for advice then just give advice not a reply which tries to belittle people. I have asked for advice on 5 proplems and on 4 ive had smarta...

I went back today and after fitting a new aps, it is working perfect.I recently got a megger dual m/meter m8000 and after doing part p , im just getting to grips with my new meter, thanks lads

Didnt you get taught to be polite to the superior race (scousers).FULL STOP

I done that and its not very helpful as the flashing is pointing at the gas valve but how can it be when the h/water is working soundly,and im convinced the flow switch which was blocked with sludge is the source of the proplem but ive changed it and made sure no muck had blocked the new one ...

I was the 4th fitter shed had out to her gloworm condenser conv boiler, it was firing up but after 10 - 20 mins cut out and then it was firing up but cutting out after 2 - 5 min, so i went there at 3 pm and shed had new parts tried g/valve,pump,etc , all no good, so i knocked and seen the...

Thanks lads, the pump seems ok , its running as if its sound, i didnt say i changed the thermistor (no change) , and the fan is ok on h/water , i dont like just diving in and saying pcb like many do, its ok if youve got all the parts in your van but iff i buy a pcb and it dosent work it might be...

A worscter 24 i junior 2 years old, h/water ok, no heating , goes through sequence but doesnt fire,then red light comes on flashing , i thought a flow switch would do the job as the old one was full of muck and was blocked , but no joy , so maybe its all sludged up but it should fire at least ...

Sooey we know were the MASTER RACE , school i went to was alsop in walton and believe me learning wasnt on the agenda , i think in all the time i was there , we didnt get told much that was very helpful, it was like this, go into class, talk for a bit , then get told to write (if we wanted)or...

do you know anything about boilers if you do then a t/coupler is quite easy to fit but if you dont , then dont touch

t/coupler you hope, as if its not that and the o/heat stat is ok then its a gas valve, is the flame a good size , if it is then you will need to get a corgi reg fitter out to fix it

About £5, 1 breeze block inside and 6 brick outside bit of s & cement and jobs done

One step at a time, eh i am a scouser and when i was in school learning how to write letters and posts were not important, i wish now they were , its just something we never learnt

oh its leaking i didnt read all of it ,its knackered if its alot of water ,shut it up and get it replaced

Leave it open so it can automatically vent your boiler if needs be,just leave the cap loose,if you vent your rads then when you fill the system up this needs to be open or your system will start banging and cutting out

baxi 80 i see now

Sounds like your diverter valve,it shouldnt heat anything up when you do it manually as the pin isnt coming out allowing the water to flow through the valve and get heated up so unless its something different it shouldnt be any use what boiler is it,and is it onh the h/water or h/w and c/h

I had this problem last year and found it was the gas valve which i didnt expect to be the main issue,the o/heat button was also knocking the pilot out but when i renewed the g/valve it was ok

I will take my time now lads,instead of rushing,thanks for the advice,zimmers