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I would personally start by dialling your night time temp down to whatever you can get away with before the lady of the house complains. Top tip, don't tell her you've adjusted it otherwise the thought will be in her head and she will instantly feel colder. I presume you don't have Hive TRV...

What boiler do you have? How is the heating system designed? What type of house do you live in? When is it occupied? How many occupants? Do you occupy rooms for long periods that are north or south facing? I mean there are just a million questions.

Apologies for not coming back sooner to say thank you. I disconnected the 2 port valve that was added for the garage radiator and the rest of the system is working very well now.

Thanks for bearing with me and my naivety! What do you reckon about me closing the 2 water valves above the boiler that must be the feed and return for the 1 radiator in the garage conversion? And then just disconnecting that 2 port valve? Will there be any other unintended consequences?

Well that's not good news. Can I disconnect the 2 port valve for now and close those isolator valves? Will that get the rest of the system working correctly and just abandon the garage conversion for now?

Yes, here's a picture. Definitely just for the radiator in the garage conversion which we don't use anyway.

Yes, the 3 port valve is next to the HW cylinder and looks like it's been there a while. The 2 port valve is downstairs next to the boiler. It is a much more recent addition. Looks like it was added when the garage was converted and a radiator was added there. Could I bypass the 2 port valve...

So, multimeter is out. On that terminal, yellow on top, white and brown on the bottom. No voltage when I turn the isolator on. Turn the CH on and it turns live, 240V. Turn the CH off and it remains at 240V until I turn the isolator off. Disconnect the white and brown out of that terminal and...

Ok, I don't follow what the orange is. I was an auto electrician by trade many years ago, but pretty clueless about domestic heating stuff myself. Learning as I go but if it's time to call in a pro then I'll have to find someone as we are new to the area.

Just checked the valve downstairs and it functions the same as the one upstairs. If I trigger the CH on then both motorised valves move and click into place. If I turn the CH off with Hive or with old programmers both valves stay in the open position and only return to closed by turning the...

Sorry if I didn't explain clearly. If the old programmer was during a time period when CH wasn't required then it wouldn't fire up the boiler. When it came time for CH on the programmer then it fired up the boiler and wouldn't turn CH off again unless I manually turned it off at the isolator.

That brown, goes with the grey, blue and earth into conduit that goes down through the floor beneath the hot water cylinder and appears to be the same cable that comes out next to the inline valve downstairs, which is connected together in that junction box.

Thanks for being willing to help. Hope the pictures attached help.

Do I need to connect a heating off (NC) signal wire?

Unclipped the Drayton motorized valve and triggered the CH on the hive. The motor turns then a relay click sound and the grundfos pump fires up. When I turn the hive CH signal off, the Drayton valve stays open and the grundfos keeps pumping. The only way to reset the motorised valve and turn...

Or maybe the drayton 401 southway is stuck?

Could it be anything to do with the grundfos ups3?

I've installed the hive receiver, thermostat and hub but the underlying issue remains. Maybe I should have mentioned this sooner. We've moved into this house just 2 weeks ago. We had hive at our last place and it worked well. Here at the new place, as soon as you turn on the isolator switch to...

Thanks very much for the quick reply. Does this make sense at all? Is there any way to trace the wiring without a multimeter, a long bit of cable and a continuity test?

I hope this is as straightforward as it seems. I've taken a couple of pictures of my existing wiring. Maybe someone can confirm if the Hive is a straight swap for the LP822? Where I'm more stuck is the thermostat. Do I need to bridge the wiring there? Any pointers much appreciated.