Replacing Drayton LP822 with Hive

[Ricardov12]

I hope this is as straightforward as it seems.

I've taken a couple of pictures of my existing wiring. Maybe someone can confirm if the Hive is a straight swap for the LP822?

Where I'm more stuck is the thermostat. Do I need to bridge the wiring there?

Any pointers much appreciated.

 

[CBW]

Yes Hive would be a direct swap, can even use the industry standard backplate. The green/yellow wire that’s in terminal 3 shouldn’t be used as a live but it has so apply some brown sleeving. The thermostat wiring would need to be traced in the wiring center or set to maximum and left there and let the hive take over.

 

[Ricardov12]

Thanks very much for the quick reply.

Does this make sense at all?

Is there any way to trace the wiring without a multimeter, a long bit of cable and a continuity test?

 

[ianmcd]

If you are happy to leave the old thermostat on the wall just put the yellow and red wires into the same terminal

 

[CBW]

Thanks very much for the quick reply.

Does this make sense at all?

Is there any way to trace the wiring without a multimeter, a long bit of cable and a continuity test?View attachment 283054

It’s better confirming, but it appears to be the yellow wire that meets the white (from the 3 port) and brown.

 

[Ricardov12]

I've installed the hive receiver, thermostat and hub but the underlying issue remains.
Maybe I should have mentioned this sooner.
We've moved into this house just 2 weeks ago.
We had hive at our last place and it worked well.

Here at the new place, as soon as you turn on the isolator switch to the programmer, it runs the CH full blast. I suspected the thermostat downstairs to be faulty as you cannot hear any click when you turn the dial.
I thought this would be a good chance to switch back to Hive in the new house and bypass the faulty thermostat.

Unfortunately the issue still continues.

Previous owners say that they never had problems but then again, the house has also been empty for almost a year if that makes any difference.

Any pointers where I should start looking?

I notice that my back plate has wiring to the Neutral, Live, Hot Water off NC, (nothing connected to heating off NC), then connections to hot water on (NO) and Heating on (NO).

 

[Ricardov12]

Could it be anything to do with the grundfos ups3?

 

[Ricardov12]

Or maybe the drayton 401 southway is stuck?

 

[Ricardov12]

Unclipped the Drayton motorized valve and triggered the CH on the hive.
The motor turns then a relay click sound and the grundfos pump fires up.

When I turn the hive CH signal off, the Drayton valve stays open and the grundfos keeps pumping.

The only way to reset the motorised valve and turn the CH off is to turn off the power at the isolater switch.

 

[Ricardov12]

Do I need to connect a heating off (NC) signal wire?

 

[ianmcd]

Or maybe the drayton 401 southway is stuck?

401 Southway is draytons address in Plymouth not the model of the actuator, post pics of your wiring at the boiler end

 

[ianmcd]

Do I need to connect a heating off (NC) signal wire?

No you dont

 

[Ricardov12]

Thanks for being willing to help.

Hope the pictures attached help.

 

[gazfen]

You’ve got an extra wire with the white from the motorised valve. Where the brown going to.

 

[gazfen]

Usually only 3 wires on the orange too. Heating engineer required