That brown, goes with the grey, blue and earth into conduit that goes down through the floor beneath the hot water cylinder and appears to be the same cable that comes out next to the inline valve downstairs, which is connected together in that junction box.
as soon as you turn on the isolator switch to the programmer, it runs the CH full blast. I suspected the thermostat downstairs to be faulty as you cannot hear any click when you turn the dial.
Sorry if I didn't explain clearly. If the old programmer was during a time period when CH wasn't required then it wouldn't fire up the boiler. When it came time for CH on the programmer then it fired up the boiler and wouldn't turn CH off again unless I manually turned it off at the isolator.
Just checked the valve downstairs and it functions the same as the one upstairs.
If I trigger the CH on then both motorised valves move and click into place.
If I turn the CH off with Hive or with old programmers both valves stay in the open position and only return to closed by turning the power off at the isolator by the programmer.
I was an auto electrician by trade many years ago, but pretty clueless about domestic heating stuff myself. Learning as I go but if it's time to call in a pro then I'll have to find someone as we are new to the area.
Are you saying you have a 3 port mid position valve AND a 2 port zone valve ?? that is what your pics suggest, you cant have that they will conflict with each other
On that terminal, yellow on top, white and brown on the bottom.
No voltage when I turn the isolator on. Turn the CH on and it turns live, 240V.
Turn the CH off and it remains at 240V until I turn the isolator off.
Disconnect the white and brown out of that terminal and the yellow by itself is only live when CH is turned on. Turn the CH off and the yellow goes back to 0V.
That must indicate that one of the 2 valves has a switch stuck on, is that right?
Are you saying you have a 3 port mid position valve AND a 2 port zone valve ?? that is what your pics suggest, you cant have that they will conflict with each other
Yes, the 3 port valve is next to the HW cylinder and looks like it's been there a while.
The 2 port valve is downstairs next to the boiler.
It is a much more recent addition. Looks like it was added when the garage was converted and a radiator was added there.
Could I bypass the 2 port valve added just for the garage conversion radiator?
I notice that my back plate has wiring to the Neutral, Live, Hot Water off NC, (nothing connected to heating off NC), then connections to hot water on (NO) and Heating on (NO).
That is your problem you can not have that setup, you will need to remove the mid position valve and replace it with 2 x 2 port zone valves so you will have 3 x 2 port valves in total called an S plan + system and wired accordingly
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